AER57 Amana Range - Instructions

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and sli ... Read more d door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

First I released the lock on the oven door hinge so that I could take the door off by lifting it up and out. Then it was just a matter of removing screws, replacing the hinges, and putting it back together. I did have to guess a little as I started removing screws as I wasn't sure exactly what to remove, but it became pretty self evident ... Read more as I looked it over. Not as bad as I had expected.

Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story.
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the ... Read more oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power ... Read more and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

I wasn't sure if it was the heating element or the temperature probe not allowing the oven to go above 200 degrees so I ordered both from Selectparts. After receiving my replacement parts (in record time thank you) the oven element had a hidden slit on the underside near the connection. During its removal the element disintegrated at th ... Read more at point.

Since Maytag is very user friendly to maintain, it was a matter of removing the retaining nuts securing the element to the back of the oven, and resecuring after replacing with the new element. I did have to take the back panel off the oven to reattach the wiring to the element. This was necessary because while I was removing and replacing the element, the insulation was pulled through the access holes. I also replaced the temperature probe because I had already ordered it. This was easier to replace however and I did not encounter the isulation problem as I had when removing/replacing the element. I recommended your company to my friends and would definately order parts from you should I need to repair another appliance in the future. Thank you again.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again. ... Read more ..would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

My wife heard a loud surge when preheating the oven one day. When I restored power, the oven wouldn't heat and half of the oven display would not light. Broiler OK. Range top OK. The oven coil was electrically open after having melted through itself during the surge. I ordered a oven coil from PartSelect, based on model #. Installat ... Read more ion was simple and only involved several easy to remove screws and a couple electrical terminal lugs. I replaced the coil but the oven would not heat beyond 100°F. I ordered a new oven display from PartSelect. PartSelect described what display series is required for a particular serial number. The first 2 #'s of the serial # are the display series required for the oven. My serial's first 2 numbers were 1 and 7, but PartSelect offered only a 10 or 12 series. I ordered a 12 series display and the part was identical. When I removed the faulty display, there were clearly burnt regions of the circuit card. Removal and installation of the display involved a nutdriver, philips screwdriver and circuit card plugs.
I am not sure what caused the failure, the display or the element, but, in either case, I believe the cause is eliminated. The total repair costs were around $225 in parts. At the moment of failure, the oven was approximately 5 years old.

I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed h ... Read more ow easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!