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AER57 Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the AER57
31 - 45 of 557

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the 2500 watts element-surf was opened (wasn't heating)
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • luis from Lincoln, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1 Turn the circuit breaker that feds power to the range/stove off
2 Opened the oven door and found two screws that hold the top part of the range. I removed the screws and disconnected the green cable (ground) so I could have access to the Element-surt
3 Disconnected the four wires that connects the Element and removed the bra ket that holds it.
4 Replaced the new element, connected the wires and attached the braket.
5 Connected the ground (green cable) and place the top back on place (screwed the top from inside the oven).
6 turned the power on
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Element burned through due to something dripping on it & burning.
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Boone, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I looked at the other repair stories on this site & realized it should be simple to do. I first switched off the power at the circuit breaker (range has its own switch). Then used a philips head screw driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. Gently pulled the element out. Was able to discon nect the wire on the right side. But the other one would not budge. Thought I would have to get a repair guy out after all. Decided to try again again next day. Put on a pair of leather gloves to get a better grip on the wire (thought pliers might bend the connectors). Was able to wiggle it back & forth & it came loose. Then it was easy to hook up the new one, gently pushing the element connectors into the oven wires & put it back into the oven & replaced the 2 screws holding the element in place. Switched the circuit breaker back on. Turned on the oven and it works like new and no repair person visit!! Thanks for the info at this site.
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right rear burner was inop for last 4 years
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Steinhatchee, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
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Glass top electric range element not working
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Stockton, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
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Bake element
19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherri from knightdale, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Real easy to do. I just unscrewed from back pulled out until wire can out of back then seperated from wire. Took out element put new one in. Real easy didn't even need my husband
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Oven door locked and was flashing code F4
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary L. from Trinity, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
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Top element wasn't working on ~1.5 year old oven
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • gabrielle from Hopewell Junction, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
FIgured it was either a bad heating element or a realy expensive repair so I purchased a replacement element to rule out the simple and inexpensive possibility. Pulled oven out from wall and disconnected power supply. Removed retaining bracket from top of oven, two screws that held in heating element, disconnected from fittings, replace d with new element, and reattached screws and retaining bracket. Plugged in power supply, tested lower oven (it worked just fine) pushed oven back against the wall. Threw away the old element and packaging. Job done.
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defective oven sensor
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sean from easthampton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires to gether and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
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My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bexley, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its correspon ding hole.
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bake element fried and killed the clock
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from south Portland, ME
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplug stove, remove 2 top screws on each side of top back panel. Remove 4 screws holding clock to panel. Unplug each plug and plug into new clock one at a time. install clock to panel and replace back cover.
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Rubber gasket failed due to age
14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Woodland, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as g ood as new.
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hard to get old one out
31 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from chatham, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
easy to put in
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Burned out Heating Element
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Fort Mill, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I turned off the breaker for the oven. Next I pulled the oven out so I could access the back of the oven. Then I removed the back of the oven so that the connections for the heating element were exposed. I disconnected the wires from the element and then went back to the front of the oven. I removed the plate over the heating el ement (2 screws in the back) and then removed the screws that were holding the element in place. I pulled out the heating element and then put the new one in. Finally I hooked up the element to the electrical supply and then put everything back together. Don't forget to turn the breaker back on!
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Broken front door glass.
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Stewartville, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed bottom and side trim, slid the bottom trim onto the glass, and reinstalled the glass on the door. I think there were less than 8 screws total.
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Code said we needed a sensor
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janice from Portland, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.
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All Instructions for the AER57
31 - 45 of 557