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AER55 Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the AER55
61 - 75 of 882

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Oven door locked and was flashing code F4
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary L. from Trinity, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
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Burner would go red hot once and awhile
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile
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Burned Out Termincal Block
16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Davie, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I discoverd my switch box locked with my stove electrical port and stove stopped functioning. Pulled my stove back and saw that the "terminal block" was melted on one side; hence, switch box locked in place to avoid a fire, thank goodness. Looked up part on internet, unplugged stove, took off terminal box, ordered part and replaced. BT W - PART SELECT is awesome; I received my part the very next day!!! :-) Very happy with their service.
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Lower element went out
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kimberly from Palestine, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to co me out and replace the wire.
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oven door shattered--
19 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sam from Kingsland, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Since it fell out, we didn't know how to put it back in--after several hours of frustration, thinking the glass was too big--we went to appliance store and looked at a stove and found out the glass went on the outside with only a groove and handle holding it in place. After that, it took about 30 minutes to complete.
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Top element wasn't working on ~1.5 year old oven
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • gabrielle from Hopewell Junction, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
FIgured it was either a bad heating element or a realy expensive repair so I purchased a replacement element to rule out the simple and inexpensive possibility. Pulled oven out from wall and disconnected power supply. Removed retaining bracket from top of oven, two screws that held in heating element, disconnected from fittings, replace d with new element, and reattached screws and retaining bracket. Plugged in power supply, tested lower oven (it worked just fine) pushed oven back against the wall. Threw away the old element and packaging. Job done.
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Oven light not working
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
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defective oven sensor
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sean from easthampton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires to gether and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
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someone did not install cord properly! they left a strong strain on one of the 3 wires, with a loose nut connection that caused it to heat and melt the plastic that poped out toward the rear metal cover and short circuited.
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Daytona Beach, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I cut the ends of the cord and went with direct wire (no round eye clip) to the back side of the terminal block and tightened firmly. It took about 20 Minutes.
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Broken door handle
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ed from North Palm Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it
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My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bexley, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its correspon ding hole.
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bake element fried and killed the clock
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from south Portland, ME
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplug stove, remove 2 top screws on each side of top back panel. Remove 4 screws holding clock to panel. Unplug each plug and plug into new clock one at a time. install clock to panel and replace back cover.
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oven door would not lock for self clean
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Sherman, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
switched out latch asy,rear
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Code said we needed a sensor
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janice from Portland, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.
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All Instructions for the AER55
61 - 75 of 882