AER55 Amana Range - Instructions

First I removed the old bowls and replaced them with the new.

took old bowls out, put new bowls in, took a coffee break

Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.

First, I unplugged the oven. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After that, I gently pulled the element toward the front of the oven until the wires were exposed. I disconnected the wires from the old element, removed the old element and then attached the wires to the new baking element. I gently pushed the ... Read more new element back into the screw holes and screwed the new element in place. When I plugged the oven back into the wall I heard a pop and thought I'd blown up the oven! Turns out the breaker popped...after fixing the breaker, I turned the oven on and the element worked just fine. I highly recommend PartSelect.com for their fast shipping and great products. I will be ordering from them again for future appliance parts.

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, ... Read more reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.

After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.
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Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.

I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.

I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.

I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.

Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!

Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.

Replaced old drip pans with new ones - very easy - even a 68 yr old lady can do it!!

first I pulled the stove from the wall. Then unplugged the stove from the wall (electric stove) for safety. then I removed the middle back panel screws(2) and then the panel. I then pulled the wires off the heating element that was bad. I took the screws (2) off the heating element inside the oven. I had to use WD-40 to loosen the sc ... Read more rews because with the heat they were really stuck. I removed the heating element and replaced it with the one I got through partselect.com. Put everything back and walla finished. Partselect.com sent me the right part at the right price and fast. No hassles at all.

I ordered gray enamel drip bowls and they fit perfectly. Unfortunately 2 of them were chipped and bent slightly. They still worked which was better than the make shift ill fitting ones that came with the house so I decided to keep them. I did tell parts select about it and they sent me a new order of drip pans at no charge. I used the ... Read more perfect ones but the 8" drip pans flaked off paint after one use. I guess this is an Amana defect...the paint doesn't stick under heat.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to ... Read more fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.

The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays s ... Read more teady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.

removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. re ... Read more moved each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well

This is not the best design. You'll need to have an extra set of hands to hold the trim pieces in place. Remember the glass is positioned outside [on top of]the trim pieces. Be careful as the trim pieces are rather brittle and can be hard to locate in their proper position. Position glass in the holding tabs at the bottom, hold glass ag ... Read more ainst the trim pieces and gently position door handle over glass and trim.The handle holds everything together. No instructions are shipped w/ parts.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected the new element using the wire caps, and finished bye rescrewing the element backinto place.

Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one