ACS4 Range - Instructions
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1998 oven unit flashing F3
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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chris from houston, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
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inner glass busted
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from orange, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.
Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and sli ... Read more d door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.
PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.
Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and sli ... Read more d door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.
PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.
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Bake element stopped working
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melanie from Renton, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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burner receptacle burned out
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from N. Haverhill, NH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
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Oven never came up to correct temp. Broiler did, so it had to be the bake element.
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cheryl from Marietta, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned off the power! Unscrewed the element (2 screws) pullled the wires out. Put the new part right in. Easy!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!
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Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Judy from West Salem, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power
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and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Inner Galls on door was craked
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randall from Katy, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought
Other Parts Used:
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heating element was broken
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Regina from Delray Beach, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
just replacing the new one into place manually!
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Rivet broke on the right side oven door hinge
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Pleasanton, CA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201
After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets ... Read more a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.
Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.
Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.
After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets ... Read more a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.
Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.
Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Ashland, OR
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull
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the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from FREDERICK, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ... Read more ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ... Read more ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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my oven would not heat to proper temp
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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mark from CHAMBERLAIN, SD
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. T
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his repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
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broil element burn out
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JORGE from CANTONMENT, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Shipped on timely manner,I will order again from Part Select, installing was a 15 minute job, that what I did, 1 unplugged stove, 2) removed 4 screws, (2 on top bracket and 2 on back) , 3) slide unit out couple inches enough to disconnected the wires from each end of unit and removed old part, installed new unit by reconnecting end wir
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es, pushing unit slowly toward back of oven until wires find it's right position, set it back in place with the 2 screws on top bracket and 2 screws on back, done!!
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