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ACS4 Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ACS4
1 - 15 of 511

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
194 of 214 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Carthage, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
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The element broke in two pieces after food dried on it.
178 of 184 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heather from Huntsville, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, I unplugged the oven. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After that, I gently pulled the element toward the front of the oven until the wires were exposed. I disconnected the wires from the old element, removed the old element and then attached the wires to the new baking element. I gently pushed the new element back into the screw holes and screwed the new element in place. When I plugged the oven back into the wall I heard a pop and thought I'd blown up the oven! Turns out the breaker popped...after fixing the breaker, I turned the oven on and the element worked just fine. I highly recommend PartSelect.com for their fast shipping and great products. I will be ordering from them again for future appliance parts.
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
162 of 213 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Westford, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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I needed drip bowls that fit properly
92 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marilyn from Peachtree City, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered gray enamel drip bowls and they fit perfectly. Unfortunately 2 of them were chipped and bent slightly. They still worked which was better than the make shift ill fitting ones that came with the house so I decided to keep them. I did tell parts select about it and they sent me a new order of drip pans at no charge. I used the perfect ones but the 8" drip pans flaked off paint after one use. I guess this is an Amana defect...the paint doesn't stick under heat.
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The Burner was getting too hot and you could not regular the tempature
77 of 89 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Hagerstown, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one
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F1-1 code
79 of 110 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from marstons mills, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Fa ilure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
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The Baking element in the bottom of the stove apparently shorted out and partially melted
59 of 61 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Salem, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
First I turned off the circuit breaker on the house electricity panel. I removed the two screws that held the element in place in the oven. There were two wires connected to the element by spade plugs that were free floating in a fiberglass pad. I reconnected the spade plugs and put the element back in place and put back in the two sc rews. This procedure had I known what I was doing could have been done with the stove in place and would take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. Having no experience at this, I had pulled the stove out into the room and also removed the back cover which turned out to be unnecessary. I put everything back in place and held my breath and turned on the circuit breaker. Voila! It worked!
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Needed to replace oven door gasket.
58 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lori from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.
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bake element burned out.
48 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • alexander from Birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, I shut off power to stove(a must).
Removed two screws that hold element in place.
Gentley pulled element toward door opening.
Once wire is expose, hold back of element and pull gentley to seperate element from wire slot.
Connect new element to wire and replace screws.
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Burned terminal block and filter board
95 of 207 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Decatur, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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The oven light has been broken forever-I turned on the oven and the element started flaming.
47 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • B L from Lima, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My husband replaced the bake element in moments. We couldn't get the broken light out of the socket because we couldn't locate our needle nose pliers. After a few days I finally got tired waiting and found a small pair of pliers in the house and got the remains of the bulb out and screwed it in, and plugged it in and we're in business! ... Read more />Never wait for a man to do what you can do yourself!
I was so pleased that ordering the parts on-line was so easy and I didn't have an expensive repair bill to pay!
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Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.
35 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Arlington, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the righ t side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
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The heating element would not adjust to the knob settings. The element was always at maximum heat, even when I set the knob on minimum heat.
32 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vernell from Memphis, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This was easier than putting in a new light switch. The old receptacle would not make the necessary adjustments to the heat element to maintain the desired temperature. Even when I turned the temperature knob to "minimum", the heat element would bun at the maximum temperature. I pulled the element from the Receptacle, raised the stov e top to expose the receptacle and wiring. My stove was too heavy to pull from the wall, so I had to go to the breaker box to flip off the breaker. I returned to the stove and snipped the non working receptacle (with a wire cutter) and attached the new receptacle with the ceramic wire nuts, that came with the assembly. I turned the electric-breaker back on, and tested the heat element. The element will now make the on/off adjustments on each temperature setting, to maintain the correct heat.
I ordered two receptacles because I wanted a spare. I do a lot of baking during special-day dinners, for my family members... and due to the age of my stove, I bought the bake element as a "back up" if the present Bake-element burns out.
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could not control burner temp.
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Chesapeake, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover
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Outer Heater ring not working on dual burner.
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off power to unit.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws hol ding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.

Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.
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All Instructions for the ACS4
1 - 15 of 511