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ACS3350AW0 Amana Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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just moved.range oven had only 1 wire oven rack
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary Jane from Union City, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks
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My son turned on the oven, not realizing the salad spinner was inside.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donna from Orinda, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!
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Had to replace a rubber whee that was part of one of the drawer slides.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from fairport, NY
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest
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that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.
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Other Parts Used:
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previous igniter stopped working, oven would not heat up
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lorin from Palatine, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stov
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e. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.
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Oven gas valve would not open
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Eau Claire, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.
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Oven either would not come to set temperature or took a very long time. Gas would flow to burner for only short times. When burner was lit, flame was often low. There was often the smell of gas.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Chicago, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal ma
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y not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.
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Oven & Broiler wouldn't light
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Kingman, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter an
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d see what is going on there.
The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.
To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.
The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.
To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.
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Oven very slow to lite off
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff from Medina, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took bottom oven pan off accessed through oven storage drawer.Removed a few screws holding the igniter bracket,removed igniter from its holder(Be really,really careful doing this procedure because the igniter tip is verrrrry fragile,ask me how I know)Put it all back together and Voila,it works!This is so easy a job a caveman can do it! G
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ood luck!
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Broiler Would Not Turn On
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Lake Zurich, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.
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After on-line research i realized the igniter failed.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Davis, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure.
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The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.
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The oven would not light up.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bonnie from Milwaukee, WI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Micha from Altadena, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a wa
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y to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.
PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.
PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.
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Oven would not light, broiler would
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from lancaster, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls th
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e broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.
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Oven igniter would not ignite
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Bethel, CT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Removed drawer
2.Removed back panel (2 screws).
3. Disconnected power line from old igniter
4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.
5. Replaced with new igniter.
Works like new.
2.Removed back panel (2 screws).
3. Disconnected power line from old igniter
4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.
5. Replaced with new igniter.
Works like new.
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Ignitor was old and wasn't working
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marc from Kirkwood, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).
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