A101 - Instructions
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Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin
28 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from Stroudsburg, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair
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washer wouldn't let the water spin out!
22 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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SHARON from DETROIT, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part s
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elect to get my parts. Thanks
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Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer
24 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rebecca from Wylie, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Wrench set
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.
Other Parts Used:
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Motor Froze
22 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matt from Oxford, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Make sure to release the springs and pulleys before you try to tackle the bolts that hold the motor base to the bottom of the washer. Mine were a bit rusty and took some force to break loose. Also it's a good idea to take pictures of how everything sits before you disassemble as the pictures in the repair kit are not very clear. Oth
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er than that it was pretty straight forward. Wiring was a breeze. . . . Good luck
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Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.
20 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from King George, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner ... Read more tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner ... Read more tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
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Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin
19 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from Brooklyn, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs
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from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.
When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.
In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.
When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.
In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.
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no water drain
20 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Franz from Lakeland, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.
Other Parts Used:
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My washer stopped draining
24 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jenna from St. Louis, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.
I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.
I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.
I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
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Main drive belt worn
20 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephan from Yonkers, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension m
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ade it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!
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Water leak
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from Tarzana, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Se ... Read more t washing machine upright.
No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Se ... Read more t washing machine upright.
No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).
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it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub
14 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Clinton, OK
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wren
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ch it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.
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leak at trans. stem
14 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Beachwood, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!
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the motor burnt out
17 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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walter from watertown, WI
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set
took washer into the garage, removed front cover & disconnected the wiring. Then i removed the motor assembly. Piece of cake to finish job.
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Leaking Tub Seal
14 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jerry from haslet, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dreme
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l tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.
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Water Leaking from underneath washer
12 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rocco from Kenvil, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads,
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I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.
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