A100 - Instructions

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, receive ... Read more d them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting ... Read more with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!

I removed two screws near the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom away from the machine. Inside, I removed two cap screws, one under each front corner of the top panel. The top panel is hinged at the rear. I lifted the top panel from the front, rotated it to the rear and leaned it against the wall behind ... Read more the machine. It was not necessary to disconnect any wiring. The "U" shaped water injector hose connects to the washer water source with a hose clamp and has a grommet-like end that fits in a round hole in the top of the tub. The hose had cracked and was leaking where it connected to the tub. The new injector hose was a direct replacement and was easy to install.

After ruling out leaks in the hoses, pumps, tanks, and other connections, I set the machine to start filling while I had the top open. Immediately, it was obvious the water was coming out from the injector valve (located at the top of the machine, between the water inlet mixing valve and the washing tank).

After taking this par ... Read more t off and disassembling, I realized that the neoprene inner part was not salvageable. (I tried cleaning off the accumulated scale and reassembling, but the rubber was too old and stiff, and no longer worked as designed.)

I considered just replacing the valve assembly, but when I saw that the price to purchase hoses as well was only slightly more, I decided to go ahead and do the full job.

The actual repair consisted of removing a couple hose clamps, sliding the new parts into place, and putting the covers back on the machine. Less than 1/2 hour.

There are two phillips head screws near the bottom of the front cover panel to remove, then two hex head screws up near the top of the machine (inside) to release the top cover from the frame. The top then tips up to reveal the inlet hoses.

At that point, the rest of the procedure is obvious. Remove the hose clamps and pull off the old hoses; install the new parts; replace the covers on washing machine.

Don't force anything into place. If you have to push that hard, chances are something is not in the right position. There is plenty of room for the parts if they are installed correctly.

Hint: use a drop of liquid hand soap to lubricate the inside of the hoses prior to pushing them onto the fittings. It makes them slide right on and saves a lot of frustration. Any excess soap will flush through on the first load and become part of the wash cycle.

opened washer removed old damaged part and replaced with new part, losen brackets from hose inlet, removed hose, then fit new hose into tub groves can be very frustrating take your time and be patient, once you get it on, fit over inlet, tighten brackets make sure that seal is secure by turning on the water to fill if no leak the job is ... Read more done run thru complete cycle to test. Thanks

Changing the cartridge tops over to Stainless Steel was very easy and looks good,

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the bel ... Read more ts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridg ... Read more e base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

removed front panel (2 screws at base)

Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)

Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)

Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels

watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.

Removed heating elements and dropped new drip bowls in and replaced new elements

Simply unplugged the old elements and inserted the new ones.

dissembled the burner, remove the broken blocpk and bad spade.rewiered and assembled the burner.

Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.