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91194752010 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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eye wouldnt come on
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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daniel from valentines, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in
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Burner not heating.
1 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Greensboro, GA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Isolated to control switch.
Replaced
Replaced
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burner was inoperative
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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bryan from cocoa, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
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blew into pieces.
0 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ratha from Danbury, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
There is not much to it!
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Right front burner not getting hot
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Cory from Honesdale, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I
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found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.
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Bottom trim on oven door rusted - poor GE design
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Wallace from Vestal, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it
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basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.
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burn out switches
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Thomas from Hinesville, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.
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large burner on the dual element not working
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Alan from Medina, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The part arrived much sooner than I anticipated. The job was a little harder and took a little longer for me because I'm not good at repairing things. I usually have to call someone. However, I followed the step by step instructions that were provided both on the website and with the mailed item and had no problems. The instructions w
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ere clear and easy to follow. The tools needed were very basic - all of which I had on hand. If I could do it - anyone can.
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Bottom door trim (pc 119) corroded
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Jonathan from Bremerton, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Open oven door, unlock hinges and lift off. Lay on face on carpet or piece of cardboard. Remove 2 screws at top that go thru door and hold handle assembly. Remove 3 screws on bottom that hold bottom door trim to inner door. Carefully turn assembly over (hold it together so you don't drop the glass front!) and place back on floor, hinge si
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de down. Lift off front glass and frame assembly. Lay flat on floor. Remove 4 screws that hold bottom door trim to side frames. If glass is stuck to bottom door trim (which it probably will be from rust and gunk)..... Remove 4 screws that hold side frames to upper handle assembly and completely lift glass and bottom trim out. Holding glass vertical, stand on the bottom trim piece and carfully work the glass up and out of the groove (do not wiggle it side to side or you will need to buy a new piece of glass). While you have everything apart, clean all the parts and remove the decade of gunk. Reassemble in reverse. The long screws at the top of the door that hold the upper handle assembly in place, have spacers around them, they thread onto the screws and maintain distance and alignment when re-assembling. Also, I found it easier to remove the handle from the upper piece (4 screws) to allow me to lay the whole assembly flat while screwing the bottom, side, and upper trim pieces together around the glass front. Once that is done, then put the handle back on before you assemble it to the inner oven door. That is it !
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
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BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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Spilled 1/2 gallon Hot wax on stove
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Roman from West Chester, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took door apart to clean inside of glass door. scraped most of the wax from the stove 99%. Could not get the last 1%. Cleaned all parts. Put door back together again, put the door seal on after I got the right one. Had to reorder a new seal(one that was actually made for that model) messed up the first one and whalla! Took about 3 weeks
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to clean off the wax from stove and the surrounding area. Stove is good as new. Thanks for the quick service. Would definitely recommend and use you guys again. Thank You.
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Broiler unit burned out!
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mary from sunbury, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
For someone who does not do this often, the directiions walked us through it well. Saved big service call. I helped him hold the unit in place and he was able to connect the connections, and it works! But it was awkward to get to.
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Wall oven: light flickered or did not work in a loose poreclain socket.
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Robert from Owings Mills, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts S
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elect, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!
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Other Parts Used:
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Twisting of stuck cook-top killed the event
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James from Kingsville, MD
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
The age of the system resulted in the cook top being heavily stuck by food-stuff to the range surface. The result was a twisting of the top when breaking it free. It caused the cooktop (a $500+ part) to crack diagonally across the whole surface. Thus ended the quick do-it-yourself process, and out to buy a new range. Parts-select was
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very good about the return process of the un-used and un-opened burner element.
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8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
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Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I ha
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d viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
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