EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

911925 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911925
121 - 135 of 636

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
After years of great service the bittom bake element went up like a sparkler in two locations. Looking back, the heating effeiciency had probably dropped off subtly over time too.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from LOUISBURG, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
The repair was very easy and your video was extremely helpful. Especially regarding pulling the oven out and removing the back wiring cover to get to the spade terminals, rather than trying to do it all from inside the oven. Added bonus was that I got that pocket for the oven cleaned out like new! Eww! Pulling it out also gave me enough r each without having to remove the oven door (didn't realize you cold do that). Best part though was your mention that GE often DROPPED the zeros in their parts numbers. Couldn't locate the part on any website until yours noted this. so.. you got the sale. Went back to GE's website, located it and found your quality part was also less expensive! 11 minutes start to finish, quick shipping and works great! I'll be back! Thank you!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven door hinge roller deteriorated, oven door hard to open.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Kernersville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open and slide door upward off of hinges. Removed bottom drawer to access hinge spring. Detached spring, noting proper hole in hinge for reinstallation. Removed three screws holding hinge and removed hinge. Compared new part to old...exact match. Inserted hinge, and reinstalled the three screws. Reattached spring in hinge hole. Sli d door back down onto hinges. Done in four minutes flat!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from HONEA PATH, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Switch was not turning off range indicator light
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from PORTLAND, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connecti ons. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
previous owner self cleaned and left oven racks in the oven
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judith from San Antonio, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
threw out the old ones and slide in the replacement ones from you.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Hole in gasket
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cynthia from Kidder, MO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last w as feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Burned out broiler element.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from YORK, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
heating element in oven
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from BOCA RATON, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I first pulled the stove away from the wall to unplug and look from the rear. Look at the wiring from the back (you may have to remove 2 screws and the plate that covers the wiring) and take a picture of it if you can with your smart phone - this way when you go to put it back you have a reference. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 little bolts holding the element in place. Wiggle it toward you slowly so the wires don't pull off. It's easier if you use needle nose pliers to get the fittings off, if its hard wiggle the fitting it will come off. I put the connections on the new element and squeezed them tight not to move. I did put a small piece of electrical tape on the connection ends for my piece of mind. Screw it back in and, plug it in and turn on. If the element starts to glow your done, put the cover back on over the wires and slide it back in place. If your kind of handy you can do it.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
oven door jammed,could not open it
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Winchester, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
my door handle broke off.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • yvonne from CHESTERFIELD, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
My son repaired it. I ordered the parts thinking I could repair it but it was way beyond my ability.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The oven does not keep adequate temperature.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from GILLETTE, WY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unp lug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Cracked inner door glass
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CHRISTOPHER from Davenport, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the door by unclipping the hinges with a screwdriver - very easy. I laid the door on the kitchen island unit on the polystryrene packaging. I removed all of the star bolts. I need not have removed the star bolts around the door hinges as these hold the hinges to the inner frame. The cracked double glazed unit lifted out and was replaced very easily. We took the opportunity to clean all of the parts that don't usually get cleaned - hence the time taken. Reassembly and reattaching the door was very easy. We didn't rush and were very careful in laying the door on a good flat surface. The oven is now good as new. Well done PartSelect for stocking such an old part - $125 to keep the range working perfectly.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 911925
121 - 135 of 636