91178 Kenmore - Instructions

I changed out the old ignitor with the new one. New ignitor fit perfect on old mounting bracket. Attached the two wires and that was it.

took off the door it should be very simple by opening the door just a little bit then pull up the door take out the shellves than take of the bottom of oven usualy there's 2 cap screws in back holding it down then take out the drawer from under the oven & unscrew the bracket that holds the flame pipe from underneath also unscrew the screw ... Read more from inside the oven the holds the actual flame pipe in front next to the door then unscrew the old igniter from the pipe snip the old wire going out from the igniter & strip it a little & connect the new igniter put on the ceramic cover supplied together with the new igniter connect it back to flame pipe put everything back together you should be done. But make sure the wires are pushed down to underneath as much as you could also when you put back the gas pipe the wire should not be in the way underneath the oven

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance ... Read more repair etc.

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced wit ... Read more h new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before perfor ... Read more ming any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

Removed oven bottom panel. Removed lower drawer to access old igniter. Had to take a cover panel off to expose igniter. Unscrew two screws to remove igniter which was a bit awkward to reach. Then simply put new one in its place.

Take bottom drawer out, take two 1\4 inch drive screws out from back bottom of inside of oven. Take out protector plate . Remove 1\4 inch drive screws from bottom burner[back of oven] where drawer was. Extract burner. Rest is self explanitory. Good luck. . . . . .

The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the ign ... Read more iter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.

It was a few days before Thanksgiving and our oven went out. We had out of town guests coming for a week stay with us. I fortunately found the instruction manual and hopefully thought it was the igniter. I called Parts Select and unbelievably I received it the next day. I checked with the helpfull hints to installing it. It was easy and q ... Read more uick. The only problem I had was laying on the floor to long, I had trouble getting up. I'm 70 years old. Thank you Parts select for having the part and your incredible delivery.

well part was correct .Got it fast son installed it so do not know what tools, But at last one think i did clean under the stove, which was needed. Would do business again if needed.
Thank you

I followed the advice in the previous repair stories as this was very helpful.

I didn't know if polarity on the igniter mattered, so to be safe I marked the same wire on the old igniter and the corresponding wire on the new ignitor and plug, so it would be hooked up with the same polarity.

I took the burner element ... Read more out to make it easier to replace the ignitor. I made sure to leave plenty of wire when cutting the connectors off the old igniter. Hooked everything up and it worked perfectly.

I went to the GE website, did the trouble shooting and read that 80% of the time the igniter was the problem. I read how others did the repair, ordered the part and followed their steps. My only problem was the two screws were at a tough angle to get to, if it wasn't for that it would've been 15 minutes