911725 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Replaced old ignition module with new module from parts select.
The most important tip was to label each lead before removing from old ignition module.

I'm still repairing. The igniter was replaced with new but it still doesn't glow. I'm waiting for a schematic that is being mailed to me from GE. In the meantime I have borrowed a test instrument to check that the system is hot when the BAKE button is pushed. The controls light up as expected but no glow. The BROIL igniter glows whe ... Read more n activated, lighting the broiler. The new Ignite was packaged very well so it isn't suspect. I LEFT YOU FOR A FEW HOURS. I tested the electrical with a meter and got zero voltage. I removed the wire nuts and using two alligator clips I connected the meter to the bare wires coming from the oven wall. I then hit BAKE again and BINGO! Replaced the defective wire nut and now the igniter is happy as a clam. --- Thanks for your interest and for expediting the material.

I followed the other instructions folks had left, and things went very well. I did unscrew the mount to lift the entire flame assembly out, which made getting at the screws for the igniter much easier. Once I had done that, I clipped the wires close to the old igniter, one at a time, then connected them to the wires on the new igniter. Th ... Read more e part came with ceramic wire nuts for this, which I was glad for because I wasn't clear how best to connect wires in a heated environment. Put everything back together and it worked perfectly.

Easy

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced wit ... Read more h new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance ... Read more repair etc.

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before perfor ... Read more ming any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with exce ... Read more llent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy proce ... Read more ss(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting ... Read more hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!

Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -