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911476 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911476
106 - 120 of 165

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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
  • Kenneth from Salem, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Broken Door Switch
  • Peter from Green Valley, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
  • David from Lisle, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham p. Took 5 minutes.
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Powered Off completely
  • Mohammad from Piscataway, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
After reading reviews that there was no power what so ever and a fuse replacement will solve the problem, I tried it. Replacing the fuse is very easy (and I am not handy at all). All you have to do is remove the microwave cover from the top by removing two screws, slide the cover to the left and pulling the cover off. Then remove the g rill in front of you, by removing one or two screws. The fuse is in front of you, use pliers and be firm but gentle. Replacing the fuse is easy but it did not solve my problem.
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All power to the microwave went out.
  • Michael from East China Township, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
PartSelect had helpful repair instructions on-line which made the repair easier and faster. Unfortunately, there were other problems with the oven that immediately blew the new fuse I had just installed. It was then determined that additional repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new microwave.
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3 of 4 Oven Lamps burnt out
  • Dave from Woodbine, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Remove the glass cover to the halogen lamp fixture (counter clockwise turn, about a 1/4 turn). Recommend use of rubber coated gloves as the glass covers do not offer much by way of a good grip. Gently remove the halogen lamp (bulb) and insert new bulb into socket. Since the oven door is open, the lamp will light up indicating successful installation. Replace the glass cover (clockwise turn) until secure. Pitch the burnt out halogen lamp in the trash.
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would not turn on - plug in and would shut off right away
  • Vita from Flagstaff, AZ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
thank you very much.
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Quit working
  • William from Socorro, NM
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Just like the directions said. Very simple.
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worn oven door gasket
  • ROBERT from MILLER PLACE, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
simply pry off the old gasket and lay new gasket in place and press pins into slots
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Microwave would not turn on
  • Prashant from Dardenne Prairie, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.
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Microwave died-no display-15amp fuse blows
  • David from Hot Springs Village, AR
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I shut off power to the microwave, discharged the Hi-voltage capaciator and disconnected the wires to it, then removed the screw and bracket that held the capaciator in place. After removing and replacing the capaciator, reattaching wires and mounting bracket, and replacing the 15amp fuse, the microwave woked fine.
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Oven lights were burning out regularly
  • Douglas from Thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixtu re back into place and screwed the housing into place.
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Cooling Fan Would Not Shut Off.
  • LEONARD from NEWPORT NEWS, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Loosen top panel (3 srews). Remove limit switch (approx 1-inch diameter disk), after unhooking two wires and removing two screws). (Limit switch on left upper side. ) Replace limit switch and top panel.
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Motor and fan turned on when door was opened.
  • Neal from White House, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan ven t. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.
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Oven slow to heat up
  • Joe from Harkers Is., NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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All Instructions for the 911476
106 - 120 of 165