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911463 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911463
91 - 105 of 516

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Element would not respond to changes in temperature setting
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from chance, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn off power to cook top. Remove 2 screws that hold the cook top to countertop. Lift complete cook top from counter and place diagonally across opening. Remove 10 screws that hold glass top to the component cabinet. Make a diagram of wiring to element. Disconnect wires. Remove 2 mounting brackets from bottom of old element and posi tion them on new element and screw tight. Wire new element as diagrammed earlier. Replace glass top on component cabinet and reinstall 10 screws. Place unit back into counter opening and secure with 2 straps. Turn power back on. Stand back and enjoy your accomplishment.
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Outer burner was not working
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Very simple repair. Remove two screws to lift the range top. Then remove the two screws holding the element in place. Disconnect the wires from the old element, connect the wires to the new element. Reverse the procedure and you are done. Total time is anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes.
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My large burner had "burnt out" and would not turn on
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Orlando, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the screws from the underside of the stovetop, lifted up the top, propped it up to keep it from falling (using a large book), and removed the old burner by unscrewing it from the top and removing the wire connections. I then screwed the new burner into the top, and attached the wires back to the burner, dropped the top down (ge ntly and carefully, of course), and screwed the top back down to the rest of the stove. It was fairly quick and painless. Although, putting the stove back into his position was not easy, but that was no fault of the stove!!
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Halogen oven light burned out. When trying to remove old bulb, it broke off.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from FRANKLIN, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.

The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gentl y inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.

Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!
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Hinge design is weak: Hinge roller wheel splits; it's been replaced twice in last two years
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from PORTLAND, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Slide oven door off hinge arms and set aside
2. Slide out oven bottom drawer and set aside
3. Detach springs from perforations in stove rails then hinges and set aside
4. Loosen three screws in each hinge, remove and set aside.
5. Remove hinges, threading them out through openings
6. Thread new hinges into stov e openings. Align hinge arms with hinge wheels.
7. Align and tighten three hinge screws in each hinge.
8. Re-attach springs to perforations in hinge, then stove rails
9. Slide oven drawer into stove and door into hinge arms
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Inner glass broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.
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Overheating dual element
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alberto from TUCSON, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the e xtra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .
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The control knob on the burner stopped allowing you to adjust temperature and would on turn the burner off when turning counter clockwise
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from BELLE ISLE, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I remove d the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process
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No Instructions
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!
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Bad thermostat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from COVINGTON, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed outer case, checked fuse first, it was good so went to thermostat. No continuity reading. Unhooked thermostat, used jumper wires to by-pass break—briefly plugged the unit in. It came on so I knew the issue was definitely the thermostat.
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OVEN LIGHT OUT
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DANIEL from STAMFORD, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
REMOVED 2 SCREWS AND LOWERED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. UNPLUGGED THE OLD ONE, AND REPLACED IT WITH THE ITEM SENT TO ME
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left hinge wheel cracked
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Angelo from STATEN ISLAND, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
REMOVED DOOR TO OVEN
REMOVED HINGE [3 SCREWS]
REMOVED BOTTOM DRAW
UNHOOKED SPRING FROM LEFT SIDE ATTACHED TO HINGE
PULL OUT DEFECTIVE HINGE
REPLACE WITH NEW HINGE AND SCREWS
REHOOK SPRING TO HINGE & REPLACE DOOR
COMPLETE

FOLLOW VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTS SELECT
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Oven door would not stay open.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GARY from BETHANY, MO
  • Very Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
Called in and talked to someone and he look yup what he thought was correct but after i got them theywere wrong so i sent them back for a full refund minus 9.90 freight. I still need to figure out what i need for my 27 inch wall oven. Please help. Thanks
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The indicator light stopped working
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Damascus, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
I knew the lens (which also holds the light) was broken. I also ordered the light. I flipped the circuit breaker, raised the stove top and removed the 6 nut-head screws holding the cover plate. A nut driver would have been helpful, but I got by with a 6" crescent wrench. I removed the cover. I unplugged the two wires from the old light an d plugged in the new one. I inserted the new lens and slipped the light over it. I flipped the circuit breaker on to make sure it worked. After flipping the circuit breaker off, I replaced the cover plates and the screws and lowered the stove top. I flipped the circuit breaker on. It worked!
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Stove was not getting enough power.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from Wells, ME
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),r ed] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
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All Instructions for the 911463
91 - 105 of 516