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911463 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911463
46 - 60 of 516

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Rotary switch for the dual control burner failed
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Belvidere, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order reassembeled the range.
Quick & Easy
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left front burner would not turn on
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • manuel from key west, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.
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Single Heating Element Support Clip was needed to hold up the heating element in the oven. Old single heating element support clip broke and came out of the hole.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marion from METHUEN, MA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D
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my lower oven heater went out
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lorita from bend, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased
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Bottom element burnt out
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Curtis from Oxon Hill, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
remove two screws slide out. slide new one in. put two screws back. done.
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Replace window pack assembly
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rose from BEND, OR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
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Swicth Stem Broken
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from COPAKE, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]
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Old infinite switch WB21X36771 broke...heating element stopped heating
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from PLANO, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from PORT ORANGE, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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Right front burner had no heat control. (High heat when on "Low")
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Ocoee, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Rem ove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.
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Outer ring of burner did not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top