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911462 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911462
31 - 45 of 492

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Right front burner out.
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Prairie Village, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or s o and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
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The Bake Element Split
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Surprise, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
This was so easy I should be a repairman! Turned off power at the breaker, used socket to unscrew two hex head screws, pulled out element slowly from the back of oven wall - enough to expose the wires about 3". Used pliers to remove clips from terminals, put new element in, pushed on new terminal clips, fed wires and terminals back throug h the two holes, replaced the hex head screws, turned breaker on and wallah! My wife was happy! That's a good thing.
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Bake element did not get hot.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeanette from Vergennes, VT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I was able to remove the heating element but in the process one of the wires fell behind the back wall of the oven so I needed a little help getting it out. It was my first time working with electricity. If this didn't happen the repair would have been quit easy. The instructions were great.
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Single Heating Element Support Clip was needed to hold up the heating element in the oven. Old single heating element support clip broke and came out of the hole.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marion from METHUEN, MA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D
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The handle fell off and I broke the outer glass taking it apart.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Modesto, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair was easy, I took out the 4 screws and removed the outer shell, placed the glass in the bottom slot. lined up and started the handle screws, tighten them by hand gently. Then laid the outer over the inner door and re-inserted the 4 screws. Made sure it was all tight and slipped the door back over the hinge. Took about 10 min. ... Read more />Wish I was more careful tightening the handle the first time, would have saved myself $55. Don't over tighten the handle!
Kudos to PartSelect, the part was a snap to find and order, easiest online website ever! It was here the next day even though I shipped it ground.
Thanks for making my big blunder easy to fix.
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my lower oven heater went out
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lorita from bend, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased
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Bottom element burnt out
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Curtis from Oxon Hill, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
remove two screws slide out. slide new one in. put two screws back. done.
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Swicth Stem Broken
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from COPAKE, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]
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Old infinite switch WB21X36771 broke...heating element stopped heating
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from PLANO, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Large burner would not heat
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Carthage, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I ordered the wrong part to start with. (READ CAREFULLY!) I reordered the correct part and it was simple. I unpluged the old element, plugged in the new one replaced the drip pan and trim ring and we were back cooking.
Service was fast, lady I spoke with on the phone to exchange parts was knowegable and nice. Great people to deal wi th.
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from SALISBURY, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've wit hstood the modification.
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from plainfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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Electric Burner Control Broken
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from VINELAND, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!
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Element control stopped working
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Covesville, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the n ew one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.
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All Instructions for the 911462
31 - 45 of 492