911462 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Large burner would operate on high setting only.
22 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ernest from Bellevue, NE
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
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Surface burner coil did not work.
23 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Mont Belvieu, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet
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, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.
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Oven door hinge rollers broke, hard to open door
16 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Framingham, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Before removing screws, I reached in and felt for where the upper end of the spring attached to the hinge. There are three holes in the end of the hinge arm, so I wanted to be sure of which hole to use. (The holes are very close together, so if the spring falls out before you determine which hole it was in, it probably won't matter so l
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ong as you are sure to use the same hole on both new hinges.) I then removed three Phillips screws per hinge. Once the hinge was loose, I could wiggle it around and release enough of the spring tension to slip the top end of the spring out of the hole on the hinge arm. Then I pulled out the old hinge and inserted the new one and replaced the three screws. Without the tension, the lower end of the spring fell out of the little hole in the oven bottom where it normally attaches. Our gas oven has a broiler rather than a storage drawer, so it was a little difficult to get the lower tip of the spring back into that hole. It actually ended up being easier to get the lower tip of the spring back into that hole first, before trying to reattach it to the hinge arm. Once I got the lower end into that hole, I pulled up on the spring and maintained upward pressure on the spring while I fiddled around to get the upper end into the hinge arm hole. Took about 20 minutes, door works perfectly now. Lots of sharp edges inside the oven, so had to be careful.
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uncontrollable heat - would not cycle off
17 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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anthony from maumelle, AR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turn circuit breaker off.Raise up cook top and remove 6 screws that hold catch pan in place.move 3 screws that hold switch cover panel [2 sections]in place. Pull off knob for bad switch and remove 2 screws.Pull off each of the 5 wire terminal clips by removing one at a time and replacing that one on the new switch control to assure correc
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t placement.Reinstall switch cover panel and catch pan.
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Failed oven door hinge
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Spencerport, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull oven door open about a couple of inches. Grab the door by the sides and pull up to remove from the hinges. Set it aside. Remove the storage drawer under the oven. This gives you access to the tension spring attached to the hinge. Detach it by hand. Using a phillips head, unscrew and remove the damaged hinge. Replace the new hinge. Re
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attach the spring. Replace the storage drawer. Replace the oven door. Done.
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The electric burner on the stove top would no longer heat up, when we removed it we noticed that the element was completely burned. I mean fryed!
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Monica from Point Blank, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the
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wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!
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Simply replaced the drip pans. Came to realize that I had the skill set.
17 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from HARRISVILLE, NH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
First dressed out with my hard hat, work gloves, dust mask then locked all the doors to prevent intruders from disturbing my concentration. During the installation took video for you tube broadcast and then invited friends and neighbors to witness the accomplishment! Made a sloppy soup to see how the drip pans worked. A+. Received quite
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a few back pats and atta boys. Most challenging aspect to this endeavor was unwrapping the packaging which was well done thank you. The whole experience left me refreshed and ready to take on the world! Thanks for asking!
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Lower Heating Element Out
12 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Clarksville, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) discovering a burnt spot in the element sent me searching for a new one. I couldn't find any locally, so I continued my search to the internet. This is when I came in contact with PartsSelect.com .
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They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks
They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks
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Oven would not preheat - took over 1 hr to get to 350 degrees
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Mt Juliet, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned the range/oven off at the breaker box. Pulled all the racks out. Unscrewed two screws holding lower heating element in. Pulled the heating element out to expose connections. Unhooked connections, plugged in new element. Replaced the screws. Turned breaker back one. Pretty simple!
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Interior light needed replaced
22 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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Broken oven element.
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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NICHOLAS from BALTIMORE, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR UNTIL THE RANGE IS UNPLUGGED AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS OFF!!!!!!
Very easy repair, but, either there is a minor amount of current flowing through the element at all times, or the off switch wasn't working when I started. didn't turn the breaker off, after I removed the nuts, as I was pulling the ele ... Read more ment to reveal the terminals, the terminals arc'd on the oven wall. BIG SPARKS!
After I turned the breaker off and started again. No problems.
Very easy repair, but, either there is a minor amount of current flowing through the element at all times, or the off switch wasn't working when I started. didn't turn the breaker off, after I removed the nuts, as I was pulling the ele ... Read more ment to reveal the terminals, the terminals arc'd on the oven wall. BIG SPARKS!
After I turned the breaker off and started again. No problems.
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Could not find the correct replacements (burners & drip pans)
13 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from JEFFERSON, GA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
After months of buying the wrong parts & cost I discovered this site So easy to order & quick delivery, plus very easy installation. Thank you. I also wanted to add that the reps (Tanisha & Matthew) were extremely helpful & informative. I can only hope all the reps equal their performance. I will definitely be using this site, before an
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y other source. Knowledge & cost is also important to me & that need was met. Good job!
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Right front burner out.
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Prairie Village, KS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or s
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o and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
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Daughter broke outer glass on stove
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pat from Rudyard, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unpacked the glass, unscrewed the screws, slid the glass in and screwed the screws again.
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Heating element dangling
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Victor from Miami Beach, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Snapped in the clip
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