911433 Kenmore - Instructions

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two fron ... Read more t supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

I removed the screws holding the old element in place, then pulled it out a few inches from the back oven wall. Then I pulled the wires away from the old baking element (pulled off easily), and being careful to keep the wires on the same sides as before, pushed the new element on to the wires. It was then just a matter of inserting the ... Read more wires and insulation back into the opening and tightening the screws. Simple!

Removed the oven racks, removed screws holding element hanging support from roof of oven, removed screws holding plate of element to rear of oven. CAREFULLY worked element loose from back of oven and gently alternated pulling each side of element (near the base) until connecting wires came free of insulating batting. Pull too hard and t ... Read more he connecting wires can break loose and disappear behind the batting. Once freed, disconnected both wires with socket (use pliers for extra grip on flat part of connectors, if necessary), removed element, braced new element on bottom of oven, aligning connectors to now-free wires. Re-attached with the new screws that came with the element (attachment points on element are threaded; do not reuse old screws as the threads may not match), gently re-inserted element into insulating batting at rear of oven, reattached hanging support, then replaced element plate screws.

Can be difficult to work in small, deep ovens....many oven doors can be removed. If so, remove oven door and use a chair as a support...lie on your back on the chair and hang your head and arms in the oven.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

After months of buying the wrong parts & cost I discovered this site So easy to order & quick delivery, plus very easy installation. Thank you. I also wanted to add that the reps (Tanisha & Matthew) were extremely helpful & informative. I can only hope all the reps equal their performance. I will definitely be using this site, before an ... Read more y other source. Knowledge & cost is also important to me & that need was met. Good job!

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or s ... Read more o and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

It was very simple.. first turn off the electricity... next take out the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven... then pull the two plugs apart( male and female ends) ... throw away old part.
put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... ... Read more put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power...
don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.

lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.

Remove the screws inside the oven holding the back of the element to the rear wall of the oven. These scrrews are a square drive. Pull element forward and remove 2 screws that hold wires in place. Both sets of screws needed to be replaced with a different size. Reverse order to install.

Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works ... Read more like a charm!

I reviewed the schematic. Removed the outer casing. Pulled out the existing wires and replaced them exactly on the new switch. Snipped out off the control stem to match the others. There was a small metal piece on the old stem which holds on the knob. I removed it from the old stem and put it on the new stem and Eureka.

I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.

First, the screw holes whe ... Read more re the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.

Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.

I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.

Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.

It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]