EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

911428 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911428
106 - 120 of 134

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
burnt out element
  • chuck from battle creek, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
turn off power, remove 2 screws, lift off of hanger , slide out far enough to unplug wires. remove brackets from old element, I did have to use a screw driver to open up bracket to slide over new element(new element a little larger diameter coil) reverse removal. DONE !! Thank You Part Select !
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Burner not getting hot
  • Janice from Paterson, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
replace element
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Poor connection to element
  • Austin from Blackfoot, ID
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
In a little over 15 minutes, I was able to pull the element and pan, snip the wires on the terminal block and use the wire nuts to fasten the new terminal block. The shrink wrap tubing went into place easily and all went back together easily. Best of all, the two year problem of a poor element connection was solved in a matter of minute s for a few dollars.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bad connection to electric elements
  • Larry from Salem, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Lifted top, opened back splash, unplugged old wires and replaced with the new ones them connected to new elements
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Right front burner connection to burner broke.
  • Jack from Hastings, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Wife repaired it because she got tired of waiting for me:) Hardest part was pulling stove out of cupboard space to get to back of stove. Easy to repair.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Contact Burnout Inside Terminal Block
  • JAMES from STATE COLLEGE, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull out oven/range unit. Lift range top all the way up. Remove old terminal block. Make electrical connections using supplied wire nuts & heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink. Replace range top. Install coil burner & burner pan as unit. Done.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Several burners quit working
  • John from Anchorage, AK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Had one burner that was completely out as the old terminal block had a broken contact. The other burner was intermittent and would arc when heating up. There are several slightly different size terminal blocks. I had a hard time re-inserting one of the old burners into the new terminal block but got it to seat. I put a new burner with the new block on the other one and it fit much better. Additional tools used were a wire stripper and a heat gun for the heat shrink. The stove works great now.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Replace terminal block
  • FRED from Kenner, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Simple repair. Easy to do. It was disappointing to receive replacement parts which were not ceramic terminals as depicted and described in words, but plastic and therefore will need to be replaced again soon. In addition the shrink tube was not large enough in diameter to cover the wire nut, both of which were provided with the replaceme nt terminal. Part # PS232646 is not ceramic, but plastic which does not fair well in high heat applications.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Two surface burners did not work
  • Ervin from Dublin, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the two screws from the range's top and the rear zinc cover and replaced the two front clip receptacles. It took me 30 min to finish the job.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Old surface burner terminal block stopped working
  • William from Severna Park, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Disconnected the electric burner from the terminal block, unscrewed the terminal block, removed the two back covers from the range, cut the two wires (since the wires that came with the replacement part were not long enough to reach the switch), spliced the new part to the existing wiring using wire nuts, installed the new terminal block and connected the electric burner to it. With the new terminal block in place, the burner does not lie completely flat like the old one did, but it is functional.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Burned Out Broil Element
  • William from Eufaula, AL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair went ok. I did have to take the back off the stove in order to get to the wire connectors. Needed an extra person to move the stove out of it's location. Just had to be careful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The terminal block for a front stove top burner failed
  • Tom from Kensington, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
There was an excellent video demonstrating a very good method for replacing the terminal block at Parts Select.. I ran into a problem with the kit. The wires were too short. Instead of replacing the entire wire I needed to clip off part of the old wiring and solder the kit wires to them. I also needed to insulate the connections with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
One burner didn't work, others were failing
  • Ronald from Minneapolis, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I simply followed the instructions on the PartSelect website. Since the range is 20 years old, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I used needle nose pliers to carefully nurse the old terminals off the burner controls, and used fine sandpaper to burnish the male contacts on the burner controls. Since the failed terminal block wire had overheated, I burnished the burner contacts that slip into the terminal blocks to eliminate any resistance that could cause overheating. So far, all burners are working great!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The range kept giving an F2 alarm
  • Les from Coal Creek, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 911428
106 - 120 of 134