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911428 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911428
46 - 60 of 134

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Broiler did not work.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Arab, AL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
We had to take the back off the stove and disconnect the old element. One side had bad wiring. we had to repair the wires and inserted the new element. The job would not have taken so long if there were any kind of instructions.
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Fix prior jimmy-rigged repair job
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Charleston, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replac e with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
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Burner would not stay in socket
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Georgetown, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!
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Burner socket disintegrated...2nd time.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Streeter from Millersville, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.

This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.

Tha nks for having the part available.
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Broil element died
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Phoebe from JACKSON, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed instructions on Kenmore site. One point of note. Hold onto the element wires firmly. They will retract behind the oven!!! After contacting an electrician friend who removed unit from the wall and rethreaded the wires, it went just fine.
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Burners on range would occasionally fail to heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from San Diego, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I disconnected the power. Then I removed the burner element and drip pan. Using the screwdriver I removed the single screw that holds the terminal block in place. I then cut the 2 wires to the old terminal block. I connected the wires of the new block to the existing wires using the supplied wire nuts. Next I slipped the supplied h eat shrink tubing over the wire nut and wires and using the heat gun I applied heat to the shrink wrap. Finally I reinstalled the new terminal block using the old screw and re-installed the drip pan and burner. I repeated the procedure for 2 other burners that were exhibiting the same problem. All work perfectly.
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Bad sensor
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from CASPER, WY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
By myself
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The terminal block was arcing and flickering, the burner did not heat up
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from MERCER ISLAND, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable hel d in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.

By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
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Change bulb
3 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Easy
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Just follow the enclosed instructions
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • HAROLD from Tucson, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Followed the instructions
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Replace rangetop burner connectors
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Wilson, WY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.
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stove top burner not heating
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from Readsboro, VT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The longest part of the job was finding my misplaced nut driver!!Note:A small socket set will do.Unplug stove from outlet,remove rear cover panel,lift stove top up to access terminal. remove the one screw that holds the terminal and slide off the two wire clips that hold the wires up out of the way.next clip off the old terminal leaving t he old wires so you can tape the new wires on just to pull them through the hole.Once you have the new wires pulled up to the heat control unplug old and replace with the new,tighten the screw on the new terminal and don't forget to slide on the wire clips
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replaced the drip bowls
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara A from Riverhead, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I am not going into a description. It is a very minor thing to do. I did appreciate the quick delivery of the parts and will purchase future appliance parts from you again.
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My son turned on the burner to make something and then there was a pop and stove would not work.
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Landisville, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the burners and pulled the stove out to get the back cover off. Removed the back cover after main power was shut off. Removed old burner terminal blocks and replaced with new ones. Replaced back cover and pushed stove back into place. Turned on main power to stove checked burners and they worked. DO NOT REPLACE OR DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON ANY MAJOR APPLIANCE WITH OUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE MAIN POWER SOURCE.
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bowls were worn
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary Ann from Orient, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
Just removed the elements and inserted the new drip pans. Could not have been easier.
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All Instructions for the 911428
46 - 60 of 134