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911426 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911426
1 - 15 of 107

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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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Two part burner, outer ring not working
36 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.

Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.

2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.

VERY SIMPLE.
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Cooktop Burner was always on High no matter what the setting on the Control
33 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from Salt Point, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1) Turn Power off at Circuit Breaker
2) Lift Cooktop out of counter top.
3) Remove all dials from controls by pulling straight up.
4) Remover glass plate which covers burners by removing
screws along outer edge.
5) Remove the two top screws from the control to be
replaced (this holds the infinite contr ol to bracket)
6) Remove one wire at a time from the old control and
plug on the new one in correct orientation.
7) Reverse above order to reassemble.

(Note: Not all infinite controls are same PN when
ordering, the drawingings are deceiving that they are)
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Large burner would operate on high setting only.
22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernest from Bellevue, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
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Inner element of dual burner died
19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Van from Hyde Park, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
-Turn off breaker
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
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Left rear element would not get hot.
19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Hopewell Junction, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
FIRST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS THAT POWER THE COOKTOP!! Remove the cooktop from the counter by removing the screws from the mounting straps under the counter. Then remove the screws that hold the glass cooktop to the frame and lift off the glass top. Next lift up the bad element and unplug one wire from the bad element and plug it in to the new element. Make sure to put it on the exact same terminal of the new element. Do this for all the wires. Remove the two mounting tabs from the old element and put them on the new element. Turn on circuit breakers and your done.
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Center of large burner stopped working.
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • paula from East Grand Rapids, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not."
It was a snap!

My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I remov ed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
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Flat surface stovetop element was burned out
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Meridian, MS
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Removed brackets holding the cooktop in place.
2. Removed the cooktop.
3. Removed the screws holding the housing for the elements.
4. Removed bad element.
5 Connected new element.
6. Reassemble
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Intermitently the switch would stick on high.
15 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Mattawa, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hol e and secured.
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Interior light needed replaced
22 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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cook top burner stayed on high
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from Yardley, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
using the info on this site i guessed it was the switch. It was. this is a Radiant Heat in counter drop on cook top. i was nervous about getting it out of the counter but that was eassy, just sits on top. the One issue was diconnecting the BX electric cable from the elecric box. mine did not have threads and a nut. but a push in fitting w ith small tabs.. i forced it out by pushing the tabs in with a screw driver.. later found out it was a band that was eassily removable by just prying it open with a screw driver... and later replacing it.. the glas removal was just screws and the switch was insised a cover with four screws.. plugged the new one in (careful to keep the connections the same, and reversed the process.. ready to fix it again if needed!thanks for having the part... probably saved $200! can take less than 30 minutes if you get past the electric connection quicker than i did... that;s it!
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Switch had lost infinite control.
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fielding from Bulverde, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed counter top stove, released zip ties on flex conduit,removed cover glass, removed switch anchor panel, removed old switch,(noting the color of each wire) replaced switch reassembled.
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Right front burner out.
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Prairie Village, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or s o and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
18 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
  • Very Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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All Instructions for the 911426
1 - 15 of 107