911413 - Instructions
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Broil element burned out, literally!
Turned off power to oven. Lifted off the oven door. Removed four 1/4 " bolts from outside of fan housing. Removed two 1/4" bolts holding element. Removed element from three clips holding it to upper oven surface. Unplugged two element wires. Reassembly was the reverse. I am an auto mechanic by trade and this was a fairly simple process.
Parts Used:
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Judith from Franklin, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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F1 Code keeps coming on
Remove control panel: Made a layout of the wire colors and IDs. The new panel was sighly different. Had additional conponent which I ignored because it did not match the wires or IDs I had recorded. The only wire that I did not connect was the ground (Green wire) The place for it on the new board was crossed out. After I placed the wires where it should go on the new board and turned back on the power. I tested all the functions and they all worked the firsy time. I was very happy with the results. What I think they should provide with the new panel was a conponet layout of the new board.
Parts Used:
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Harry from Yorba Linda, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Burned-out Element
First of all, go to circuit breaker box and switch off the power to the oven.
Return to oven and verify the power is definitely off.
Open oven door to 'vent' position and remove door. Return hinges to closed position. Remove all racks.
Using nut driver (1/4-inch) remove the two screws just above the element.
Gently rock the element back and forth while pulling gently toward yourself. You should see two wires emerging from the layer of insulation in back of oven. When you have enough wire exposed, use long-nose pliers to gently rock the 'Faston' connectors and pull them off the element's male connectors.
Insert new element and re-install the connectors, being certain they are fully engaged.
Fasten the new element to the back wall of the oven using nut driver. Be careful to not cross-thread - gentle is the word!
Turn the circuit breaker on and very briefly turn the oven to Bake and verify the element is heating. It likely will smoke a bit.
Re-install the racks and the door. Reset the clock.
You should be done and your oven should run for many years..
Return to oven and verify the power is definitely off.
Open oven door to 'vent' position and remove door. Return hinges to closed position. Remove all racks.
Using nut driver (1/4-inch) remove the two screws just above the element.
Gently rock the element back and forth while pulling gently toward yourself. You should see two wires emerging from the layer of insulation in back of oven. When you have enough wire exposed, use long-nose pliers to gently rock the 'Faston' connectors and pull them off the element's male connectors.
Insert new element and re-install the connectors, being certain they are fully engaged.
Fasten the new element to the back wall of the oven using nut driver. Be careful to not cross-thread - gentle is the word!
Turn the circuit breaker on and very briefly turn the oven to Bake and verify the element is heating. It likely will smoke a bit.
Re-install the racks and the door. Reset the clock.
You should be done and your oven should run for many years..
Parts Used:
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Robert K. from Waterford, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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The range kept giving an F2 alarm
When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.
Parts Used:
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Les from Coal Creek, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven broiler stopped working. Had to replace the broiler element.
Just like the other responses described with two additional steps: 1) with a convection oven you have to remove the fan cover. It has four screws, the same size as the broiler element screws....but, get a piece of stiff cardboard the same width as the oven; put it all the way back, under the fan cover. There are holes in the oven bottom and your screws really want to roll into those holes and disappear; the cardboard will cover the holes. 2) as soon as you disconnect the element from the electrical wires....put a twist tie or other clamp on each wire as they want to fall back in behind the oven and you'll end up having to remove the build oven to get at the wires. The twist tie should keep them from falling out of reach.
Parts Used:
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Don from Los Altos, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broiler element replaced as well as oven door seal.
Turn off breaker to oven from electrical panel, locatge all screws and remove. Use caution when removing element from clips if not replacing the clips. When removing the element, be careful not to damage connecting wires as they do not pull out very far. Be sure to reattach correctly. When replacing the oven seal, be careful not to disconnect the wires to either element as you slide the oven compartment forward after removing screws. It can be difficult to find the wires behind the oven compartment if they disconnect.
Parts Used:
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---Tim from selma, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Replace Broiler Element
The whole job took about 20 min. TURN POWER OFF AT CIRCUIT BREAKER!! Remove 4 screws from the convection cover, then 2 more holding in the broiler element, disconnect 2 wires, and connect to the new one. put the screws back in, the cover back on the convection element and you are done!
Parts Used:
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Mike from Davisburg, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Broiler element
I tried to unplug old element without success. Called appliance repair man and he pulled part way out, took hold of place where plugged in with pliers and unplugged. While holding back part of plug he plugged in new element--$60.00 later.
Parts Used:
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Jess from Edmond, OK
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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door gasket badly frayed---oven temp not accurate
removed oven --removed back panel to disconnect sensor splice- installed new one. removed oven door --took it all apart--removed old gasket and installed new one.
Parts Used:
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Al from Harrison Township, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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F7 error and frequent buzzing
DISCONNECTED THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS.Removed 2 long screws from the inside upper frame accessable after the door is opened. Loosened 4 screws which held the unit in place.Copied the location and color of all the wires attached for future reference. With needlenose pliers pulled each wire at the base. Removed the old unit and replaced with new unit. Re-mounted the wires. Secured the unit with 4 original screws and then fastened the unit with the two long screws back to the door frame.(this was second unit delivered. The first replacement had the same error )Turned on power and all is well.
Parts Used:
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Hubert from Vero Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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