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8835 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 8835
91 - 105 of 1078

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Part cracked and clothes were getting caught
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Dallastown, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on th e floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.
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Broken Lint Duct tearing clothes and collecting large amounts of lint
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathleen from Belmont, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructi ons. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso
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Stopped running entirely.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Mesa, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My dryer stopped cold one day, we rushed out and bought a new one. Stuck with a broken dryer I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it (with zero experience). After a few minutes on the internet I found out that a clogged vent can cause it to overheat and blow the fuse. I opened it up and sure enough it was 100% clogged. I replaced the p arts that came in the kit and after about 20min it was running like a champ. Now what do I do with the extra dryer?
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Switches were worn out (2) and shorting out. Throwing the breaker. Actually I think the ladies boyfriend/ fiance' tried to replace the knobs that were broken with universal knobs. They didn't fit so he forced them and broke the switches internally.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Midland, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. Ho wever while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....
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Exhaust-fan switch didn't work any more.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JAY from DANBURY, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
FIRST OPENED THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. Snipped the three wires, capped the white one with the ceramic insulating nut and crimped the spade connectors to the other two. Then CAREFULLY filed one side of the rectangular hole in the escutcheon until iwas wide enough to accept the new swich. Drew the two wires up through the hole, attached them to the switch and pushed the switch into the hole until it snapped in place. Reseated the escutcheon and reconnected the two screws. Closed the circuit breaker, pressed the switch and VOILA, on went the fan. Be careful not to let filings fall into the electrical stuff. Need crimping tool & file.
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drain jar lids rusted and broken of their mounts
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ronald from ESTERO, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real pro blems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.
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No power, no light, Thermal/high limit fuses blown
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Monroe, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the lid, replaced the small fuse on top( one wire at a time). Removed the heating element, then replaced the lower fuse and re-installed the heating element. That part of the job took 15 minutes. The fuses were blown because the plastic housing inside of the front panel was completely clogged. I took the two screws off holding th e front panel on, then the two torque screws on the plastic housing. I cleaned a ton of lint out of the housing and re-assembled.
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not drying all the way, not getting hot enough
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from cedar lake, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
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Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rob from Henderson, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no o hm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
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Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (a nd the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
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My lint filter had developed holes.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Oak Park, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was supper easy. I was able to order the correct part from the detailed description you provided. I just opened it and slid it into the slot for a perfect fit.

I wish I had done it sooner. My filter had holes in it for some time.
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Burner temperature control did not work.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Palo Alto, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.

Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.
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Dryer Spinsbut does not Dry!!!!
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Felix from Plano, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Quick fix it works
remove the two screws holding the top from the back. Pull out the top section with the knobs
You should now be able to see the high limit fuse and the heating element.
Remove the two screws holding the fuse to the dryer. Replace the fuse and test before covering.
Also clean up the heating element w ith a soft brush or blower.
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high blower vibration
10 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from Chandler, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.
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drum wouldn't turn
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from Woodstock, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Pro blem!
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All Instructions for the 8835
91 - 105 of 1078