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8835 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 8835
31 - 45 of 1078

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dryer drum wouldn't turn
36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Peachtree City, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure ou t you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!
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Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow
31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Davie, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, e tc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.
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Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.
32 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bedford, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.
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dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.
31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Livonia, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wir es connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.
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Dryer belt snapped
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • J. from Oakdale, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.
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Dryer would not start
32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kay from Kingsland, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
This repair could not have been easier. I went to the web site, answered a few questions and read a few examples of the repair, ordered the parts suggested and in a few days the parts arrived at my home. I opened the top of my dryer with a long handled screw driver, as suggested in the instructions, and vacuumed out the lint around the part. I called my handy son who brought over the correct tools and we followed the instructions sheet that came with the part and repaired my dryer in about 15 minutes total. It works just as it should and I am so happy. I only paid $39.00 including Shipping and Handling to repair my Maytag dryer and it works like new. Thanks to PartSelect.com! I don't think I'll ever call a repair service again.
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My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.
31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Monique from Mission Viejo, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.
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Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat
35 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Jerome, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.
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Dryer would not heat up.
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the f ront open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++
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Lettering on old stove knobs was no longer visible and knobs were loose.
26 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Poway, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took the old knobs off and replaced them with the new!
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Just ugly this time`
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Chino, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It's wonderful to get accessories for this 20 year old Jenn-Air. I love it and now it looks like new.
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The Door Switch broke and Dryer would not run
26 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesus from Hillsborough, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Removed wires to switch
2. Lifted top panel of Dryer with a screw driver
3. removed two inside screws holding the from panel against the drum.
4. Dropped front panel on the floor and removed door switch.
5. While the door was out, I removed the lint panel attached to the door - two screws.
6. Cleaned the door p anel with a vaccum cleaner
7. replaced lint panel onto door with two screws
8. replaced door switch to the front panel
9. placed front panel on to the from of dryer with two screws.
10. Connected wires onto the door switch.
11. Closed top dryer panel and them pressed hard to catch on to metal clips.
12. Attached Dryer cable to electrical outlet
13. Trurned Dryer on and open door as it tumbled to confirm it would stop.
14. Done
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Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds
24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christy from Riley, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.
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Would not heat sometimes
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
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Replaced belt while I was in there replacing motor
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from COMMERCE, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.
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All Instructions for the 8835
31 - 45 of 1078