8614 - Instructions

Turned off water supply and unplugged appliance. Removed lower panel on back of refrigerator with 1/4 " nutdriver. Then removed supply line, and line to icemaker. removed valve from back panel and replaced with new valve. wrapped water connections with teflon tape, turned on supply line, checked for leaks, everything o.k..Replaced back pa ... Read more nel and in 45 minutes had first drop of ice. Job requires moderate mechanical ability and minimum tools. Saved a PANT load of money by doing it myself. VERY satisfied with Partselect.com

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect

I am a retired lp Gas service person so this was quite
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.

unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.

first of all i have one advantage even though i am 70 yrs old i had a appliance shop for sears in the 60s and 70s and have not forgotten to much of the basics i am still in the security business and up on electronics. last time i had the company repair the oven , 70 dollars for the part 75 dollars for the svs call. (first igniter was ... Read more on full warranty) well this time i decided to look for trhe part myself, i just went on line typed in oven repair parts and eventually all these sites came up. yours was the most professional looking and i took a chance. guess what everything you promised you delivered. price quality USA made parts and delivered in three days . opened package went to work less than fifteen minutes back in business.
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you

Pulled off the oven door, just lift straight up. Pulled out the floor of the oven, very easy just lift from the back. The only problem I had was the screws holding the old igniter wouldn't come out, they just spun. I snipped them off and picked up two new ones at the hardware store. Pull the wiring harness in through the hole in the b ... Read more ack of the oven. Unsnap old wiring harness, snap in new one. Reattach the new igniter, replace floor, replace door. Turn on oven and cook food... fairly easy repair.

Bought a new
capacitor.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to g ... Read more et behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.

unplugged, removed old parts, replaced with new

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!