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8614 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 8614
61 - 75 of 482

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Bulb burned ot
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Fort Smith, AR
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base
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water leaked when the paddel was pushed
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Monica from EDMOND, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .
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Ice maker slowed down, then stopped producing
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Sharpsburg, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench set
First pull out frig and unplug. Shut off water valve. I just had to remove two screws to disconnect unit from bottom rear corner of frig. Pull element out just a few inches and disconnect the plug that feeds it electric. Disconnect water hose and reattach to new unit. Reconnect electric plug and reinstall in back of frig, securing wit h two screws. I have an older appliance, so I had to jury rig a bit when reattaching new unit by drilling two new holes for mounting. Also, I had to buy a new water hose because the old part would not accept the standard female end of the hose to connect to. Home Depot has the standard icemaker hoses with two female ends. These two glitches would probably not apply to a newer appliance, but anyway, it's cranking out the ice just fine now! Sure I saved alot of money, even with the extra $10 investment for the hose.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Ice Maker Quit Making Ice
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLIAM from Altamonte Springs, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly
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no power at all
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • patricio from chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unscrew microwave's cover,test the fuse which is located at top rear left side, the fuse is inside a plastic tube,if the fuse is burnout,just replace it.
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wasn't making ice. The ice bin actually filled up with water.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Middlefield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the r efrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.
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Freezer was dripping water into refrigerator below
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Redmond, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Need ed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.
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Freezer would periodically allow things to partially thaw out
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dana from Canyon Lake, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!
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Refrigerator light would not stay on
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from Manchester Center, VT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.
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3 inches of frost in Fridge, 72 degrees in Fridgerator
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Orangeburg, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.
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Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from ABINGDON, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the cop per refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Secaucus, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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My U-line ice maker quit filling.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anne from Arlington, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bra cket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!
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All Instructions for the 8614
61 - 75 of 482