8139 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Front dryer bearing was sezied and out of round
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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STEPHEN from EAST TAWAS, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
I followed the video instructions that were supply on your site
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Drum wasn't turning
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Beth from FROST, TX
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what w
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as wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!
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when you push start button dryer does always start
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harley from OKLAHOMA CITY, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
order start button and was sent thermal, reordered and rep sent me a button that was not for my machine even though she had model no.,called third time and was told I had to order new control panel but they were not being manufactured any more.so it is not fixed
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under microwave (above stove) light
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from Cleveland, OH
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).
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Bulb burned ot
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Fort Smith, AR
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base
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Loud squealing during operation
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nathaniel from BRIDGEWATER, NJ
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
We replaced the drum belt and the rollers. Everything was very easy and straightforward but took a fair bit of time due to the extensive disassembly required. We followed the video available on the website for the belt replacement, which was very clear and accurate. Unfortunately, the rollers we received used a different attachment metho
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d than the OEM rollers which are depicted in the video provided. Instead of attaching from the front with a triangular plastic lock washer, they had to be attached via a nut on the back side of the roller. This required some improvisation and was a little more involved. For the rear rollers, we actually had to remove another panel to access the nuts, which was not described in the video. Nevertheless, we managed to get everything replaced and the dryer is working like it was the day we bought it.
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Dryer door hinge broke.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raul from CYPRESS, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Followed YouTube video repair process. The only problem is that the door hinge has plastic bushings attached. A couple broke and the parts listing does not show the bushings, nor does the hinge come with them. The door is a bit loose without them. Nonetheless, the repair did the job for now.
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Added air diverter on exhaust hose and blew out heat limiter fuse.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Jenkintown, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Entered dryer from rear exhaust port. Removed 2 screws and 2 clip on wires. A little awkward of process but superior method over disassembly of drum and main parts.
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Drum bearing had gone bad causing excessive noise
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from Manchester, IA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.
Other Parts Used:
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The dryer had begun squeaking. The squeaking subsided after the dryer heated up.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Albuquerque, NM
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.
My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit aw ... Read more ay from the wall.
I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.
My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.
Here is how it went:
I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.
I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.
So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.
Pretty satisfying overall.
My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit aw ... Read more ay from the wall.
I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.
My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.
Here is how it went:
I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.
I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.
So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.
Pretty satisfying overall.
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Inside Bulb went out.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Austin, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE
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Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from ABINGDON, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the cop
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per refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
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Dryer quit spinning
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peggy from San Bernardino, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
One of the roller assembly froze up & had a flat spot on it. There for causing the drum not to rotate. Pulled it out replaced the roller & up & running.
Other Parts Used:
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While defrosting freezer tossed the drain plug with ice and water into the sewer system.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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paul from LISLE, IL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Opened mailer and bag and place the drain plug into the drain. fit perfectly. In fact it is better than the one lost since the original needed a screwdriver or tool to remove the plug. This one has a flang or finger turner on it so that it can be removed. Also, does not interfere with items in bottom of freezer.
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making squeaking noise
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from MONTGOMERY, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Watched a You Tube video
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