8060 - Instructions

Once I determined what OEM muffler I needed, installation was relatively easy. I have a 1982 4hp Briggs on my Snapper tiller. There was a 90* galvanized elbow coming out of the exhaust port, with a bezel nut to lock it down. Do not remove the elbow, even though it appears that you should. If you install the muffler without the elbow the m ... Read more uffler will parallel the the vacuum for the carburetor and can melt the rubber couplers. Use the elbow to direct the heat away from the carburetor. Use a pipe wrench to lock down the bezel nut because the weight of the muffler, especially under vibration, can work loose and fall down on the tine belt cover and melt it. The bezel nut that comes with the muffler should also be used to lock down the muffler to the threaded intake bracket that comes with the muffler, not to replace the bezel nut for the elbow.

Unscrewed one screw that held the bulb cover over the bulb. Removed the cover, removed the bulb, inserted new bulb, replaced cover, replaced the retaining screw.

Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover ... Read more .
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.

All I needed to do was replace the bulb in our microwave. But, the bulb for this unit (Kenmore Elite, which I traced to being manufactured by LG) was one I had replaced before, several times, with the closest thing I could find at the local big box stores. That bulb type matched (pin size) but wattage was a little lower which I didn't t ... Read more hink would be a problem. However, those bulbs burned out in a month or two. So, I ordered bulbs from PartSelect that were OEMs that exactly matched the original specs. So far so good. Be aware if you are replacing a microwave bulb & are not finding an exact match at your local hardware store.

unscrewed the bottom of the microwave and unplugged old part then took the screw out and put new one in. Super easy!

Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other ... Read more and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I took the cover off and just put the new charcoal filter in

I followed an old appliance repair forums post from 2008 that discussed this exact common issue with this LG model. It took me quite a while to find the info. Then I used the schematic diagrams on your website to find where the part was located inside the microwave. I removed the outer cover. I tested all components including the thermost ... Read more at for continuity with a multimeter. I discovered there wasn't any continuity in the thermostat so ordered the part and replaced it. Everything works like a charm! Thanks for the great, fast service.

tested cap. with ohm meter which showed a short. A new HV cap., a fuse and it is working fine again.

I verified I had 120 volts going into transformer when the microwave was supposed to be running. The capacitor and HV diode both tested good. Be sure to discharge the capacitor before working in this area. This isolated trouble to either the transformer or magnetron. The windings of the transformer measured good. So ordered a magnetron. I ... Read more t was very easy to swap. There were 4 screws and one connector. This fixed our microwave.

Pulled the old seal out, replaced it with seal #391483S and so far looking good !

Removed the phillips screws from the base.

Using a # 10 secure driver, remove the motor. (I recommend obtaining a secure star driver set to be sure you have the right size)

Replace the spacer, which is a separate part from the motor.

Reinstall the spacer and motor.

Reinstall the bottom panel. ... Read more

Enjoy!

Used a Motor cycle Jack to remove both unites combined. Removed side panels exposing internal working parts. Removed nonworking Magnetron and replaced it with new Magnetron. The process was completed in about 1 hour.

I want to preface this review by stating that I do some DIY from YouTube, but have no experience in electronic repair. The microwave is over the stove with the extendavent. First I unplugged the microwave, removed the vent and started to unscrew the microwave from the mount. I used a power drill to speed things up. I was able to remove ... Read more the microwave on my own. I unscrewed the lid on the microwave and took the lid off and there is the magnetron. I opened up needle nose pliers to have each end touch the terminals of the capacitor (holds the power, Dangerous). I made sure to keep my hands on the rubber handles and avoid touching the metal part of the pliers. I used the pliers to remove the plug of the capacitor to the magnetron as well. The magnetron has 4 screws (2 top, 2 bottom). There is a magnet that can hold the screws to keep from falling but I’d still recommend a screwdriver with a magnet on the end. The magnetron has another set of wires connected by a metal bracket like a holder, not really connecting any wiring to the magnetron itself. I had to unscrew 1 screw to removed that. Adding everything back on was easy, same steps back. I plugged in the microwave and tested a cup of water before I mounted it back above the stove. Voila! I did need my wife’s help to hold the microwave on the hinge while screwing into the mount. It doesn’t take a lot of muscle for the help. $85 for the part and ~40 mins to fix a $400 microwave!

Took a putty knife and our the inside trim molding around the glass loose used a phillips screwdriver to remove old handle and install new handle popped trim piece back on.