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79092204013 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 79092204013
121 - 135 of 179

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Oven not heating up properly
  • Larry from Jordan, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed back cover and replaced the probe. The troubleshooting info indicated this is the problem 99% of the time. Guess what, it did not help! Further checks indicate that broil element may be out. Am going to resistance check and order if that is the problem.
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Switch was Sparking
  • Susan from Hillsboro, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
So simple....removed back panel, removed knob from front of range and removed 2 screws holding the knob in. Used needle nose pliers to pull wires off existing switch, placed wires in identical spots on new switch. Put switch post through front of range and put the 2 screws back in and the knob on. Finished and ready to go in less than 1 0 minutes. No more sparking....
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Largest burner was not operational
  • Kelly from Marietta, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
After turning off the power to the unit, we took it out of the countertop and unscrewed the base of the unit. We then unplugged the damaged coil and plugged in the replacement part. We then screwed the base of the unit back on and replaced the unit in the countertop. The largest burner now works.
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Hot Surface Light won't turn off.
  • Justin from Madison, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplugged stove. Quickly unscrewed back panel (4 screws). Popped the wires off one at a time attaching them to the new switch. Pulled the knob off the front, unscrewed screws, and put new switch in repeating previous steps in reverse. Put the panel back on, plugged it up, and pushed it back into place. Done.
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oven not heating
  • Roger from North Port, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
puilled out the oven, unplugged oven,,,removed to screws inside oven from element, make suree u dont lose wire through hole ,,,like i did ,,,had to take off back panel and put wire through hole ,,,,that was most time consuming ,,,,hook up wires to elemeny, and put screws back in and done!!!
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Infiniti switch needed to be changed.
  • Ralph from Peoria, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to c all a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.
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burner switch burned out
  • Tom from Warfordsburg, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged the main cord to the socket in behind range. Took back panel off. Unscrewed switch from its position on face of range. Switch is not a look alike switch to original, so had to pay attention to the labeling on both switches as to their identity. Removed one line at a time from old switch and placed on new switch. Rechecked positi ons of the wires and made sure there was no binding of the wire positions when installed. Mounted switch to same position previous switch was removed. Reinstalled back panel, plugged in range and tested switch. Very easy repair as long as you can see the labeling on back of switches. I used a light having a strap that is positioned on my head for best lighting possible for one person repair.
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no heat
  • John M. from PLEASANT PRAIRIE, WI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replaced the oven probe because a no heat problem. also had to replace the oven control. That was a bit expensive but still saved me hundreds not calling a serviceman. By the way, it works like new.....
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RF burner only had High Heat.
  • Garner from Sykesville, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are remo ved from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.
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Burners on high all the time.
  • Randy from Van, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced control units that were malfunctioning.
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Burner would stay on high when switch was on simmer
  • Dennis from Corpus Christi, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnected power first. Removed 4 screws on the back of the range, pulled the knob off of the switch, removed 2 small screws on the switch(on the front , under the knob) pulled off the 4 wires with spade connections on the switch. Put wires on the new switch, put in 2 screws on new switch, pushed knob on switch, replaced back cover and tested the new switch. Works great. Took less than 10 mins.
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Small plastic lens on control panel broken.
  • James from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!
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Element burned out in 15 months
  • James from Basking Ridge, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very simple, just removed three screws and pulled the top out and turned over and then removed the two screws holding the support bar. Removed and installed the element.Surprised to see that the element burned out in such a short time.
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Burner switch would not disengage, leaving +24VAC to the element.
  • W3Works, from Fairport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Repla ced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.
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Burner Switch Shorted Out
  • Stan from Sun City, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the stove away from the wall, disconnected the power cable, removed the top part of the back where the switch was. In front there are two screws that are philip heads that hold the the switch in place. Be careful when replacing the wires. When you take one wire off, place it on the new switch in the the same position. The sw itch can be put back, but be careful of the angle, because it has four screw holes. Replace the switch, replace the back, plug the power cable in, and push the stove back to it's original position. Make sure there isn't anything on the burner when you test the switch.
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All Instructions for the 79092204013
121 - 135 of 179