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7498VRV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 7498VRV
46 - 60 of 378

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Burners would not ignite
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Kalamazoo, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.
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Igniters were flaky on 2 burners and almost dead on 2
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from Craig, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the uti lity drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".
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spark ignition in stove failed to turn on burnes.
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Upland, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.
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Oven would not heat consistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leland from Orting, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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Burners would not ignite flame...Had to start with match.
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Los Angeles, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.
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Faulty bulb receptacle
10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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the lines were broken
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RONALD from DELAVAN, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1) removed 2 lines 2) removed 4 screws 3)pulled out old element4) relaced new part 5)installed screws 6) install lines &tighten
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Electronic spark ignition would not ignite intermittently.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Old Bridge, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping th e new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Variable oven heat and Ignitor. problems
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Floyd from Kenai, AK
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Secaucus, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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Oven would not maintain temperature
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is l ike new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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Just unscred the 2 screw on the Thermometer
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLIAM J from JERSEY CITY, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.
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oven would not come to set heat
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from Portsmouth, NH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
slide out stove remove rear cover (6 screws) to access sensor plug . remove two screws from inside oven area and remove part,replace in reverse order.
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All Instructions for the 7498VRV
46 - 60 of 378