58HTXW (6X) Maytag Range - Instructions
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not heating/kicking oven off
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kevin from Virginia, IL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well
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Oven temperature all over the place
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Plaistow, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven th
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at held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.
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Oven would not turn on and get hot.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from Altus, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found yo
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ur web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.
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Oven would not work
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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george from San Antonio, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!
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Oven would not heat on Back Cycle
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Jeff from Thousand Oaks, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resi
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stance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.
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oven temperature only goes to 275 degrees even when set higher; broiler works
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Anne Marie from Huntingdon Valley, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small
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opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
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Top oven sensor
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Alan from Bonita, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires to
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gather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.
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Long Oven Sensor failure - oven over heated & shut down
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JAMES from SEATTLE, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required p
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ushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle
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oven not staying on. fault cod F-3 showing
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James from Cumberland, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.
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Temp spikes.
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Wayne from Grantsburg, WI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.
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Oven would not heat
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Claude from Lakewood, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)
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Easy installation
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Jeremie from Freeland, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push
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wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!
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Fan runs continually ,door locked,error code f2,f3,f7
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John from Dacula, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with m
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atched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.
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temperature varied in oven.couldn't set
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tom from winter haven, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair
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When We Turned On The Oven The Temp. Reading Went Up To 425 And Beeped By No Heat
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DAVID from Cape Coral, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call
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