58HTXW (6X) Maytag Range - Instructions
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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Aubrey from EADS, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Trace from Ofallon, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces
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of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
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Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dave from SANTA BARBARA, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched
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off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
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ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherri from elk horn, IA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.p
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lugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Georgene from Rock City, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit
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e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas
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ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Exeter, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo
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k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
Mike
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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phillip from Farmington, NM
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose
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by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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francis from mount holley, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor.
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That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Clinton, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees
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low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Max from Houston, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.
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Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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F5 fault code kept appearing
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Louis Rodriguez from Granbury, TX
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed
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it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
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Oven temperature fluctuates
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from SOLON, IA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.
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Oven would not hold temperature, not turn on, and would shut off during use.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Arvada, CO
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Phili
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ps head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.
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