3LMVWC315FW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Replaced the 4 suspension rods/springs. Only disconnect and replace one at a time. The tub will fall out if you disconnect and replace more than one rod/spring at a time.

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get ... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

Followed youtube video. The repair was easy and fast.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Unplugged, removed cold and hot lines, moved out to garage, unscrewed 3 screws on the back, lifted up the top, removed and replaced 1 suspension rod at a time with washer leaning against wall sideways, easy peasy didn’t take no time at all, moved it back in 3 screws back in place hot and cold screwed back in and walla! It worked and has ... Read more been working flawlesssly..

Unplugged from power, unhooked water lines.Then removed back cover and control panel and top set to the side. Rear rods very easy to do by yourself after those where done have help and tip it backwards and change out the front 2 then reassembled and hooked back up and tested. Everything worked like brand new !!!

I was able to look up the issue on Youtube and watched a few videos and was able to complete the repair with help of my daughter. It was little hard to do but you do need gloves with a good grip when taking the rods out of the washer, but putting the new ones in was very easy.

Once I replaced the suspension rods, there was a li ... Read more ttle shaking but not like before. Very quiet now, no crazy loud banging

The installation was very easy and took me 45 minutes to complete by myself. I put the washer on two cinder blocks and then removed the lid. I started with the suspension rods that were closest to me and they were really easy to exchange. When I got to the rods in the back they were a little more difficult because there was more tension w ... Read more ith the new rods installed. I used the old rods to hook and pull the new rods into place and it was overall very easy.

Youtube has videos. It's very simple just replace one at a time.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Watched video from partselect and it was on the money. Removed a few screws and tilted the lid. (after unplugging). Pulled it out from wall and tilted machine to have access to bottom. Had grandson reach from underneath and pull the rods out and inserted the new ones. Work great now. My wife is happy and I saved about $600 because I ... Read more didn't have to buy a new one.

I watched the PartsSelect video. I was hoping for the tub with the slots in the tub mounts, but mine didn't have them, so I had to lay it down on its back. The only thing I did that was not in the video was I placed a 2" thick closed cell foam knee pad I had on hand between the tub and the back of the housing. When I laid it down, the ... Read more tub was elevated by 2". This made reaching the two rear rods a little easy. It seems that there would be a more robust way to achieve the dampening affect, but I guess this is cost effective.

It's strange that I searched for my issue several times and only saw recommendations to level the washer. It was level. Then one day I ran across the suspension rod resolution. It didn't do it on every load, but after a year of my wife nagging me and threatening to get a new washer, I finally fixed it. The biggest issue is just logistics in a condo hallway and a little leaking water. I also replaced my hoses. Should be in good shape until the next thing.....

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover wi ... Read more th Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!