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3968XVB Magic Chef Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the 3968XVB
61 - 75 of 176

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Oven would not hold temperature, not turn on, and would shut off during use.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Arvada, CO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Phili ps head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.
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No problem installing the sensor
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • tommy from FAYETTEVILLE, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted
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lens light was broken and missing.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Allan from Rolla, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the cooktop using screwdriver. Pushed lens-light into cooktop hole.It was difficult to do and was where I spent most of my time. Next time I will spray bottom of lens- light with silicon so it goes in easier. I stood cooktop up on its side and inserted the red light assembly onto the lens-light. Reinstalled cooktop < br />and turned electrical power on.
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My original back leg broke because the floor is uneven. Had to pull it out several times.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Phyllis from BROWNVILLE, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.
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One of the broiler drawer guides broke
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeri from NEW RICHMOND, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
All I had to do was pull the drawer out and screw on the new part! Awesome experience...and it was so easy to find the part on the website, everything is very clear and with pictures to ensure where the part belongs...who could ask for more?
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"F3" error message and no oven heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from PAYSON, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
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Replaced Burned-out Cooktop Element
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Seth from Old Orchard Beach, ME
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included exten sion wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.
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Element burn out. Would not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from AIKEN, SC
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done
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Oven door was locked, couldn't set oven temps
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Nashville, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
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Oven temperature fluctuates
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from SOLON, IA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.
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Right rear burner under glass no longer would heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Maple Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
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F5 fault code kept appearing
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis Rodriguez from Granbury, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
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Small burner on glass top stove stopped working.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • REX from VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don 't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.
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Oven not heating to desired temp
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from Ridgecrest, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cab le adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.
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F1-1 and F3-1 error code
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Lakeville, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...
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All Instructions for the 3968XVB
61 - 75 of 176