3968XVB Magic Chef Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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one electric burner does not get hot
5 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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dinh from austin, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. U
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sed the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas
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ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Georgene from Rock City, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit
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e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Burner control knob/switch shaft had broken off.
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from San Luis Obispo, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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phillip from Farmington, NM
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose
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by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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francis from mount holley, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor.
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That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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Element started sparking and a about 1 inch was white hot and travelled the entire length of the element and then extinquished
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Josephine from Highland Mills, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed old Element-B by removing 4 screws and inserted new
element. Took less than 5 minutes. It's as good as new now.
I thought I needed a new range but my son-in-law suggested I
go online and check if part is still availabe. It was and the rest is history. Thank you PartSelect.
element. Took less than 5 minutes. It's as good as new now.
I thought I needed a new range but my son-in-law suggested I
go online and check if part is still availabe. It was and the rest is history. Thank you PartSelect.
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Exeter, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo
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k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
Mike
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Clinton, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees
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low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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I needed a broiler pan
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rhoda P. from Secaucus, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.
Other Parts Used:
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front burner would not heat
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack A from Biloxi, MS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Socket set
simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Max from Houston, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.
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Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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Small burner on glass top stove stopped working.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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REX from VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don
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't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.
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