363587 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First turned off power and removed top shelf.
Then I used a flathead to slowly pry the switch out by the two sides. You just anlge ita bit and it slideds out easily. Then I disconnected the wires from the old switch, connected the new one and installed the new switch by snapping it back into the cutout.

Unplug the refrigerator. Move things to gain access to the bottom back of the refrigerator. Take care in movement of refrigerator not to kink or loosen the ice maker water supply line. Use nut driver (best), screw driver, or socket to take off 6 screws holding the cardboard cover (air access for the fan). Remove the old fan blade with ... Read more fingers and light pressure with a screw driver, it will snap right off. The new blade comes with a ringed compression fitting so you need not buy the new one that is shown on the schematic diagram. Push the new blade on the fan shaft far enough to allow the shaft to protrude from the front side of the new blade-that is what holds it in place and you should feel a little snap when it is inserted far enough. Caution: Do not vacuum around the blade or try to reinstall the cardboard cover while the fan is running. I broke two of them while doing just that, they are very brittle. Recover with cardboard and you're done!

First I turned the freezer off and took out all of the shelves in the freezer section. I then removed the guides that the shelves go into. I removed these only from one side of the freezer - the left side actually. Now I removed the plastic piece that keeps the bulb in the freezer protected. Removed the bulb. Removed the three screws on t ... Read more he top and the two in the bottom that keep the rear panel of the freezer attached. This exposed the header cable and the coils. The coils had ice on the lower section, I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Removed the cable assembly that has the two heater elements and the thermostat. The thermostat had to be plucked off the the metal pipe of coils. Replaced the assembly with the purchased assembly. Clipped the thermostat onto the metal pipe of the coils. COnnected the wires at the white connector. Attached the real panel using the five screws, put the bulb back in, installed the bulb cover, installed the shelf guides, put the shelves back in.

Freezer freezes very well now.

The OEM auger pitted and rusted. My ice was coming out brown. I had cleaned it before, but in no time is was back to 'spiced' ice cubes. I cleaned the entire ice bucket and disassembled, ordered the part and re-assembled. Now the disassembly was a different day than the assembly. It's a good thing the parts diagram was on the web, I ... Read more am no Thomas Edison when putting things back together. It is pretty general though. I sand blasted the tin cover and re-painted before buying a new one. That had rusted too. Before that expense, I thought I would try it. Be careful of the bucket as it can crack. I am not sure when mine was cracked, but I noticed it this time. If you are contemplating the purchase of a new auger - don't. The new one is stainless and the old steel and chrome is a joke. The inside of the freezer where the bracket spins the auger is rusty too and the old auger will rust again in no time. Buy a new one for under $50 shipped to your door. Another note, be sure to remember what screws came from what hole. It will eliminate the guess work when assembling. Also, the spring on the arm that controls the crushed ice function, note the position before tearing apart.

Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm ... Read more because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

First I removed the face plate by lightly prying . Once removed noticed 4 screws. Removing the screws allows you to gain access to the two plugs, one for the solenoid and the other for the switch that energizes the solenoid . Unplug the connectors and carefully lower the piece enough to reach the 3 screws that hold the solenoid in place. ... Read more The 4th screw in the center at the bottom of the solenoid is the ground wire. If it is rusted like mine was just re-attatch it to one of the solenoids holding screw. It must be grounded!
Just re-assemble, just dont forget to replug the connectors. Also a little hint, If you open the freezer door a little you wont trigger the solenoid.

The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

First i unpluged the power then cleaned everything out of freezer and removed all the drawers and racks them removed the 2 screws at bottem of freezerand removed panel then removed 4 screws on the bulbs and unpluged the wire and took off the sensor and replaced with new one put everthing back. Then on the top of refigerator side on the t ... Read more op behind the adjuster is the defrost timer pulled handle out and off removed plastic shield and removed 2 screws and unplug the timer and change it then put everything back and pluged back in and everything worked in a few minutes

1. Unplug, remove control knob from both temp control sliders, remove upper light bulb and light shield from refrigerator compartment. 2. Remove screw holding top of bracket control mod in place. 3. Lift bottom tab from slot and remove control mod from ref compartment. 3. Unplug temperature control and defrost timer and replace. (Each are ... Read more held in place with two screws.) 4. Replace control mod. This part took me the longest because the space between the top of the control mod and the top of the ref. compartment is very small and replacing the nut was difficult. Use a nut driver with a long shaft. 5. Use screw driver to turn control button of defrost timer to start cycle. 6. Replace bulb cover and light bulb. 7. Set temp control to initial setting. 8. Have a Margarita and celebrate. It's been over a week and the refrigerator/freezer is working perfectly.

The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve. Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. ... Read more r />
Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container or towel under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing.

Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube (or tubes if both water dispenser & ice maker) on the valve's outlet. If plastic tubes don't come out with pliers and assuming there is enough extra tubing, then cut the plastic tubing with a even straight cut edge razor. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts.

Push the plastic water and ice tubes int he appropriate holes in the new valve outlet, reconnect solenoids and remount new water valve.

Before installing the back panel on the refrigerator cabinet, test run the icemaker. Look for leaks, and tighten any leaky connections. If necessary, use Teflon tape or a similar product to ensure tight connections. Discard the first ice cubes that are produced because they are likely to have sediment in them.

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