362756 Kenmore Range - Instructions

On each side of the door at the top you will find an allen screw, remove those to remove the handle assembly. On the inside of the door, you will find two more silver allen screws, these release the glass frame. On the flimsy part that seperates from the main door frame, there are two small brackets that hold the glass panel. Remove those ... Read more using a #2 philips head screwdriver, then using a flat head screwdriver, carefully pry out all the ramaining glass shards. The glass frame will be very wobbly, this is a good time to have a friend around. place the new glass panel in the bottom slot first, then just hold it up, with a helper on one side, and reinstall the top brackets. These fit tightly on the glass, so expect to have to push a bit. now reinstall the screws, fold both parts together, use the silver screws to reconnect the glass panel assembly to the door frame, and reinstall the handle. Now you have a nice new door front!

Take out inside of oven.Igniter is held on with 2screws and electrical clip.take off old one and put on new one.

Disconnect power. Remove oven door, oven racks, bottom pan, drawer below the oven. unsnap igniter wire connector. Remove two screws holding the igniter in place, remove igniter.

Install igniter (placing igniter wires away from any heat producing parts) and all parts in reverse order as they were removed.

Oven heats g ... Read more ood now, makes great cornbread and biscuits, the wife helps the oven do this.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

determined that the top of the burner was melted and malformed. Repair was simple: lifted off the damaged burner and slipped the new one in place.

While I was waiting on another part to arrive, I decided it would be a good time to do a thorough cleaning. When I lifted the top of the range, I lifted it to far and cracked both front burner tubes. The top of the range should not be lifted more than 4 inches without removing the 3 screws that hold each burner in place. When the new line ... Read more s came in, I removed both front burners, knobs, and then removed the front plate behind the knobs using a Phillips screwdriver. The screws are located on the bottom of the plate. Using my adjustable wrench I replaced the lines. Then I CAREFULLY bent the gas tubes and remounted the burners. Over all an easy install. Just be careful, the gas tubes are aluminum and will break very easy. This is the second time I used PartSelect, and I am very satisfied.

I was surprised to find that the 2 screws holding on the plastic end caps were not philips. it looked like an allen wrench deal but that didn't work. Turned out that I had to buy a hex tool. Looked kinda like a swiss army knife but had allen wrench like hex tools in various sizes. By then I was determined to finish the job even if it mean ... Read more t buying a tool I'd never use again. The job took about five minutes once I had the right tool. The stove looks normal now. The stove looks brand new but for some reason there were cracks in the end caps where the screw hole were.

removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl ... Read more iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I thought that when the burner didn't light it was the control valve at fault. After shutting off the gas, I changed the valve by removing the wires, undoing the tubing, then unscrewing the unit from the back of the unit. This worked one time. It turns out that if there isn't enough voltage from the burner, the valve won't open. I found ... Read more this out after I mistakenly thought that the new valve was faulty. Check the voltage from the burner before you do anything else.

Very simple repair with no tools required. Turn off power to stove. Remove grates, remove burner, pull old Top Burner Spark Electrode up being careful not to jerk it up hard - wiggle if necessary, unplug wire from old electrode, plug wire into new electrode making sure it fits snug - if not, squeeze it closed a little at a time until it f ... Read more its snug, push new igniter into place being careful not to force it and crack the ceramic body. Install burner being careful not to damage the electrode, Install grates. Turn power back on and test to make sure it works. It took me all of 15 minutes to change 2 burner spark electrodes. The only bad thing about this repair is that the shipping costs as much as the parts.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 yea ... Read more r old oven,it was very easy/.

This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one s ... Read more crew at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.

Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.