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362756 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 362756
1 - 15 of 425

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The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.
678 of 734 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sidney from Marysville, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite r in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
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oven would not light or keep temp.
449 of 467 people found this instruction helpful.
  • zack from corning, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
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Oven wouldn't heat. This degraded over several weeks.
309 of 410 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Durwood from Suffield, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t rack to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
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On Thankgiving Day with company coming and the turkey in the oven, my kenmore stove decided to act up. The oven burner started to smell awful and start carboning up due to improper burning at the burner tube. We then abandoned our attempts to roast the turkey in the oven for that day.
127 of 201 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Pipersville, PA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After removing the bake tube and ignitor assembly the following day for a close inspection which involved removal of the bottom pan, racks etc. and disconnecting the ignitor / tube assembly by unscrewing the sheet-metal screws holding them in place, I discovered that the ignitor had burned a hole in the bake tube which could not be seen without unscrewing the ignitor from the tube first. This caused the air / propane ratio to dramaticly change causing the oven to have a strong odor, start to carbon up the bake tube and effect the temperatures and cook time and the possibility of monoxide fumes effecting the chef. The parts that partselect.com supplied, which were in stock ,worked perfectly and saved my Christmas goose. Happy Holidays!
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Top four burners on oven would not light without using match
66 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Logansport, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Really simple..Opened the top of the oven and followed the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burners to the back of the oven. Unscrewed top section in back of oven. Found spark module screwed to uppper back of oven on right side. Used a nutdriver to take a few screws out of upper back of oven. Unscrewed spark module from oven. Ther e are six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply....Wires are attached by connectors so didn't have to do anything but pull the connectors off the old spark module one at a time and push them onto the new spark module matching postion of each wire. Screwed spark module back onto back of oven. Screwed back section of oven back onto rear of oven, and that was it. Works perfectly. Saved more than $100 for service call and whatever elevated price they'd charge me for the spark module.
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oven wouldn't heat
35 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Billie J. from Western Grove, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the wires.
I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I w as able to get the exact replacemen part.
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No power to electronic readout screen there was no control to the oven at all. The troubleshooting guide in the oven manual several symtoms said to replace the electronic control board. So I did.
33 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • victor from thatcher, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First of all disconnect the power cord and then remove the top section of the oven which consisted of 2 small allen screws located in the front bottom corners [ left and right ] on the frontside. On the backside there was 2 phillip screws on top corners [ left and right ]. Also there was 2 bolthead screws that I use my small socket set or you can use a small ajustable wrench. Once all these were removed it rolled forward right off. The control board was located in the center of the panel. Made sure the part matched up and it did, removed 4 small corner phillip screws and 4 or 5 removable plug in wire connectors which were easily identified. Put everything back together, plug power cord back in and the electronic display came on. Everything worked on the oven. done deal.
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oven would not ignite
29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kwatei from Nutley, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then p ull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.
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the glass oven door broke after being accidently hit
27 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jennifer from Pottstown, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removing all the shattered glass was endless it seemed. hovever the repair was very easy. Even for a very busy stay at home mom with limited handy man skills.I did it and it only took about 15 to 20 mins. once i got all the glass out of the way.I untightened the 4 sm.bolts under the door just enough to fit the glass in and when in place r etightened the bolts and done !!
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busted glass
32 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Sylvania, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
remove two screw lift top slide glass in place install top done deal
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two of four burners ignited
27 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Eastchester, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
replaced all four top burner spark electrodes. the same two still didnt work. I had also purchased spark module and that did fix the problem. Lifting the cook top was difficult. I was afraid of breaking the sealed burners. Note there are directions in envelope on the back side of the stove. /use pliers to remove connectors from module. >G etting the top open was the hardest and most time consuming.
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I broke the oriface lines
25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • EARL from Buda, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I needed the correct model number & the correct part numbers for the two front tube assemblies. After that well.... I removed everything on top of the stove. I then proceded to remove all the torx screws for each orifice holder bracket & igniter wires so i could raise the top lid ( without this step you will wind up replacing more t han one tube assembly!) Be careful when removing color coded wires so that they work with the correct burner. Remove compression nut to burner valve... i used a crowfoot. remove orifice holder from bracket & install new holder ( onto bracket). Install orifice assembly to burner valve ( do not over tighten), re-install wires to igniters, lower lid, and re-install torx screws. The correct parts require little effort to align. Last of all, test burners and check for leaks. Thanks for reading, I will continue to learn from my mistakes!
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Needed to replace the drip pans.
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shannon from Blacklick, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Really self explanatory. Removed the old drip pans and put in the new. No tools required. However, I would like to say I received the parts the day after I ordered them. EXTREMELY FAST SHIPPING!!
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Oven would not cycle on/off/on maintain heat
20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Osceola, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.
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burner would not lite
23 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Kenner, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over
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All Instructions for the 362756
1 - 15 of 425