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362751 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 362751
61 - 75 of 304

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oven stopped heating
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • s.e from cleveland, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
I thought I was being a total girl and was afraid of fixing my oven myself, but when it took forever to get my landlord to come over and fix my oven I ordered the part, got it in three days, followed the directions online and fixed it myself! Easy, easy! Turned off the electric, switched off the gas, unscrewed 2 bolts, unplugged the old s witch, screwed in the new switch, replugged it and turned on the stove. Roasted a chicken and baked bread within minutes!
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would not lite oven
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lennie from eddington, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I found that it was a little easier to pull out the stove to do the electrical connections. First I pulled out the stove being very careful not to bend the gas line. I pulled out the wires and disconnected them. I removed the 2 screws that hold the igniter and compared it to the new one it matched. I hooked it back up with the 2 screws th en did the wire connections pushed the stove back carefully and tested the new igniter it worked like new no more microwave dinners thanks parts select .com
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broke tubes while cleaning under top
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sally from Bakersfield, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench set
was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.
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oven wouldn't heat up
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Litchfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.
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Oven wouldn't turn on
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Maurice from Lebanon, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.

After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.

Installation of the new one was simply the revers e.

Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.

The oven now works as it should.
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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. ... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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while cleaning I broke the tubes either lifting or closing the top.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DAPHNE from CHICAGO, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.
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the tubes both leaked
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • PHILL from SOMERSET, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
replacement was a snap and took only a small adjustable wrench and a flashlight. asome slight bending of the tube was required, but a gentle hand solved the problem easily.
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Gas Range oven not heating/replaced new heating element
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from EL SOBRANTE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven shelves, removed lower cover, removed heating element, removed lower drawer and unplugged element.
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Timer was making noise fol
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Wally from SEATAC, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed the enclosed instructions
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igniter wouldn.t work
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • don from rohnert park, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
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Broken thermostat.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).

My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no l onger able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.

The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)

TL;DR:

-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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Screws fell into a black hole and trouble threading the thermostate
4 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lenora from Crowley, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.
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The holes for the igniters were too small. They were 3/8" and should have been 1/2". I had to drill the holes out for the igniters to fit, which damaged the paint.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from TEHACHAPI, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
I followed the instructions
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All Instructions for the 362751
61 - 75 of 304