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362751 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 362751
1 - 15 of 304

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The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.
678 of 734 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sidney from Marysville, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite r in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
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oven would not light or keep temp.
449 of 467 people found this instruction helpful.
  • zack from corning, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
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Oven wouldn't heat. This degraded over several weeks.
309 of 410 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Durwood from Suffield, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t rack to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
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The oven stayed on after the switch was turned off
94 of 119 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robin from Merrill, WI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Check the switch with an ohm meter, 0 resistance in the closed position = a bad switch. I went to the web site found the part. ordered it next day it shows up. Removed the pot grids and all control knobs for the burners and oven lifted the top of the stove up, and off. I removed face plate behind the control knobs 3 screws, I removed the 2 screws holding the oven switch. opened the oven and un cliped the thermostat wire from the back wall. Uncoiled new wire feed under the burner shield to the back of the unit and back down the old hole cliped in the new wire. put the 2 screws into the new switch and re-assembled the rest in the reverse order i took it off . all this while watching my 11 month old grandaughter.
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Oven wouldn't light
41 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harold from Carpentersville, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Checked switch using test meter and found voltage going in but no voltage out when switch was turned on. Removed all burner knobs, raised top cover and disconnected two wires from thermostat switch. Removed the thermostat probe from oven interior by pushing it through hole in top. Removed two screws holding switch and pulled out entire as sembly. Used a wire coat hanger pushed through hole for probe so I could see where to fish the probe into the oven. Hooked up electrical connections and tested. Everything worked well.
Received part from Partselect in one business day. Excellent service and response.
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oven Thermostat stem broken
39 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Bartlett, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair was fairly easy, you take off all the burner knobs there are small screws on the face of the cover panel and a few on the bottom That come off the cover panel should come off after you remove the screws and the switch for the oven light the wires just clip on the switch there are two .the thermostat is held on by two small scr ews that are on the cover panel.you lift up the burner panel you have room to feed the thermostat wire in the stove,there is a small hole in the back were you feed the wire through then the metal part is held in place by two small clips that are in the oven on the back wall.I didnt have to trouble shoot becase I knew what part I needed because it was broken,It was a fairly easy repair hopefully this is helpful

Good Luck
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oven wouldn't heat
35 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Billie J. from Western Grove, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the wires.
I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I w as able to get the exact replacemen part.
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oven would not ignite
29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kwatei from Nutley, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then p ull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.
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thermostat needed replacement
31 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Sacramento, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had to open the top of the gas range and remove the front panel where the knobs are. I was able to identify where the thermostat wire went.
I had a little trouble figuring out how to thread the thermostat wire into the back of the range but then I poked the old thermostat through the hole from the inside so I could tell where i t went.
I just had to put all the screw back in and check it and it worked fine.
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Oven came on by itself, finally burning out the igniter
29 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Shelbyville, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Once I figured out how to get the top off it was not too bad. all of the screws and igniters for the burners had to be removed. The actual install of the thermostat was simple after that. The igniter was also an easy install. Overall, it takes more time to disassemble the stove to get to the problem than to install the part.
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Oven would not cycle on/off/on maintain heat
20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Osceola, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.
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Oven went full blast and wouldn't shut off.
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RALPH from DALY CITY, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.
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Oven would not ignite
19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffery Jankowski from Bronx, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Moved oven from the wall.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug f rom new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.
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Damaged both front burner tubes.
15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from Tampa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
While i was inserting the new lp,gas orriface to the right rear burner tube I dropped the oriface.Without looking i popped the top of the burner unit, like most older type stoves, and thats when i ran into my problem. I realized the burner tube assemblies are attached by 3 screws to the top cover.Not attached to the cabinet as the older m odels, Basically cracked both front aluminum tubes trying to retrieve the dropped oriface. so i had to replace the burner tube units, which involved removing 3 screws, and loosing up and removal of the nut to the main gas tube. extremely easy repair, next time i`ll try to remember look before i leap,total time to (r+r)burner tubes about 20 minutes.Parts select pulled me out of the fire on this one, great staff and service, with quick delivery.
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oven would not light
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from FERNDALE, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.
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All Instructions for the 362751
1 - 15 of 304