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20462 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 20462
61 - 75 of 893

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Oven heat element broke in 1/2.
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from LAKEVILLE, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took screws out back of oven to get to connectors . Pulled old conectors off Installed new element took about 5 min. Very easy job. Also good time to clean oven .
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Oven light stayed on & smelled like electrical burning.
16 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vincent from Brunswick, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven lig ht switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.
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2 elements stopped working.
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ruth from MORGANTOWN, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.
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Smelled Gas Leaks
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from LIBERTY TWP, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Inspected/removed fuel lines and found signs of leak. Removed and inspected carburetor and found that seals and gaskets were toast. Replaced said seals with ones from the kit that fit and replaced fuel lines.

Would be nice to have a fuel line kit with the big fuel line (tank to carb) and the little one (carb to engine) together with all the necessary clamps.
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the bottom oven element shorted and melted
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • angela from lake placid, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!
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Top oven overheating
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from NEVADA, MO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.
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Torn gasket
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from CHICAGO, IL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replace gasket
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2 drawer undercounter beverage ref not getting cold enough. Wont get below 48°
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from SYLVANIA, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running
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switch not always turn off
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerrold from San Marcos, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
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Large electric burner (front of oven top) acted intermittenly
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sheldon from NORTHBOROUGH, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First unplug the stove before staring any of this task. loosen and remove three cross tip screws at the upper front of the stove top. You will need a piece of 1x3 wood about 1 1/2 feet long to hold the stove top up (sets at an angle upwards to the front). Loosen remove the bracket holding the burner you wish to replace. Disconnect th e electrical wires connected to the burner. The burner is held in place with bracket clamps, remove the clamps from the oven bracket holding it. The burner will have a series if numbers in the back side, remove the brackets one at a time and reinstall on the same number on the new burner. do this to all 3 or four brackets. Install the new burner, install the bracket holding the burner, reconnect the wires. remove the wood brace and all tools. lay the stove top back down on the stove. plug the stove in and test the burner to make sure it works. turn off the burner and install the screws hold the stove to in place. Ta-Da your done. Also you tube has movie shots to give you a much better picture of what I just wrote about...
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Freezer drawer gasket damaged and leaking cold air
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from HOUSTON, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Remove old gasket by pulling it away from the frame. Work all the way around the gasket till it is entirely separate from the door. Remove the old gasket by slipping it over the door. Note the orientation of the new gasket will have the small bead towards the door - slip the new gasket over the door so that it is in the inside of the f reezer door. Press the small bead into the slot in the door. Work all the way around, pressing the bead in with your fingers. When it's all secure, close the door and check for no gaps. Takes 5 minutes and no tools - very easy. Make sure you order the correct COLOR of gasket - it comes in black and white. The black looks best on stainless steel door.
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Easy as could be
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenny from HENDERSONVLLE, TN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.
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It just stopped making ice.
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from VISALIA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First: I could not watch any videos. Big downer. Read the reviews and read a post about “three screws”.
Opened the freezer and emptied everything in it.
Remove the bin.
Two screws are on the left side. They go into the side wall.
Here’s where things get weird. The plastic “box” holds the “ice making assembly”. That box is attached by FOUR slots. You will need to remove the wire rack below the frame. There’s a plastic spacer on the left side with a slot on it. You can pull it of with your fingers when you rotate it. Slide the rack to the left and pull down the rack from the RIGHT side holes. You have move the box toward you about a inch, then it drops down.
Now, there is a electrical connection from the box to the rear of the refrigerator wall. You need a small screwdriver to lift the tab on the TOP of the connector to release it. Once that is done, slide the box forward and put it in the sink.
While all this is happening, the freezer is thawing out.
Once you remove the box, you will get error codes on the digital display. This is a good thing.
There are two “square head’” screws that you have to remove to separate the TWO parts that make the box. Slide the outer trim towards you.
The icemaker assembly slides into four slots. You put the new wires in the same place as the one you removed.
Put everything back together the opposite of the removal.
Now for the secret.
All that food you removed? Put it back in until you can slide the box into place.
Then you plug the connector in. The box should be sitting on the food.
THIS IS THE SECRET.
The ice maker has two options. Cubed or Crushed.
There are two components that make them happen. On the left side there is a slot with a gray lever the moves up an down. There is an piece of aluminum on the right side the drives the screw in the box.
Rotate the screw drive to 45 degrees.
THIS IS THE SECRET.
On the left side of the box is a rod that is spring loaded and has a bent end.
It’s about “timing”.
Find a piece of “kite string”. I used the string from the yellow energy tag that came with the fridge.
The box is sitting on the frozen food. The wire in the back is connected.
Loop the string around the lever AND PULL UP.
Slide the whole thing into place using the slots.
When it’s in place, let go of the string.
Put the two screws back in.

FINAL.
You have to PRESS AND HOLD the IceMaker button to reset. You’ll get ice cubes in a couple of hours. Through the first 24 hrs away.
You’re welcom.
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broken lens over oven light
11 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Warsaw, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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Burner indicator light lense broke off
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from NEW BERN, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.
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All Instructions for the 20462
61 - 75 of 893