20214 - Instructions
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Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
110 of 131 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James H from Oxford, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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The oven door seal was ripped and was leaking.
93 of 98 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Mickleton, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleani
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ng as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.
Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!
With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.
Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.
Best of luck!
Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!
With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.
Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.
Best of luck!
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Burner Control not Functioning
27 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randall from Mohnton, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner ... Read more control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner ... Read more control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
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Old Jenn--Air cook top inop. Model discontinued
23 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from Avon, CO
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Our Jenn-Air cook top is 25 years old. One can no longer order parts for this old of model. We ordered new SS burners as well as new Burner cartridge terminal blocks for a new and current model. They work perfectly. Took 10 minutes. $ 350 dollars verses $ 2600 for a new JennAir range plus instillation. Unit looks and works great. Pla
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n to order new switches next.
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Dual element burner only stays on high
17 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sherman from Perry, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the g
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lass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.
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Seal rap around oven door window was separating from its frame.
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lester from Torrance, CA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
The frame and window were supplied as a completed assembly. About 4 other panels had to be removed prior to installing the new window assembly. This was easy to do with a screwdriver removing about 16 screws and then replacing all panels back in place after replacing the new window assembly. No instructions were supplied with the part
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, but anyone with a little mechanical abillity could do it. You may need a helper to hold panels in place while they were being screwed back in place. Total job took about one hour
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We had no control of tempurature on one of the four burners on the electric range cook top
16 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Marietta, GA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. T
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his will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.
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missing screws for oven door
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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donna from baltimore, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..fo
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r TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.
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replaced gasket that go's between the air cleaner housing and carb. cleaned housing and reinstalled with new air filter
12 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from FRANKFORT, KY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Also replaced fuel tank , the built in fuel shut off started leaking , had to replace the tank. Ordered a new one Briggs & Stratton original equipment fit perfect . This is a 25 year old Briggs & Stratton lawn mower 3.5 HP, Runs perfect, starts by the 2nd crank every time. First time I ever had to spend money on it since I bought it new i
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n 1991
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replce oven seal
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eli from Richboro, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
take door off. remove screws holding door together, take door apart. remove worn seal. install new seal. reposition insulation and door window at the appropriate location. begin re-assembling door in reverse order making sure that apprpriate pressure is applied to keep the seal in place. re-attach door to hinges. project worked out well.
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new seal looks great. would have been a costly repair if I called a professional. I'm handy, but things like this are often hard the first time. you have to take your time and be cognizant of putting it back together the way you took it apart.
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My oven would broil but not bake.
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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M Lynette from Pawling, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I made sure the circuit breaker was off to the oven. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place , pulled the element out a few inches and eased the wires apart at the metal connectors. I eased in the new wires, put the two screws back in, and voila. In under five minutes, the oven was fixed.
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one side of cooktop did not work
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rebecca from Broadway, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I de
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cided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.
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Infinite switch malfuctioning and indicator light not working.
11 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rodney from Thibodaux, LA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I changed out the infinite switch without any problems. The indicator light was another problem. It wasn't the light that was bad, it was the indicator light lens that snaps into the panel. The light then attaches to the lense. The lense broke and the indicator light pulled away with the tension on the wires. Now I have to order replaceme
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nt lens and will have a spare indicator light.
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The outer glass panel of the interior glass assembly shattered when the oven was preheated to 400 deg.
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Hilton Head Island, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
We made the mistake of taking the door apart before we received the replacement parts. After waiting several days, which was fine, the parts arrived. Then we had to figure out how it went back together. My wife and I did it and enjoyed working on it. However....after getting it partly reassembled, we (I) found four extra screws. We took i
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t apart again and then put it back together. Turning the door over we found that the glass assembly had slipped. This meant that we had to take it apart again. This went on two more times LOL. Then the gasket gave us a couple of small fits as well. All in all it was a neat experience. I do suggest, unless you are experienced in appliance repair, to NOT disassemble the door until the parts arrive.
The comments from others on the website were a great help.
Thank you.
The comments from others on the website were a great help.
Thank you.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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