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1546 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1546
16 - 30 of 78

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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bottom trim had rusted, so we needed new piece
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robin from Apple Valley, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked op en!)
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Oven door handle broke
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Bartlett, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.
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replaced more for cosmetic reasons
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenda from Port Richey, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Your support team helped tremendously in ordering the parts. Parts arrived in only 2 days. Upon taking the door off the oven we had to remove several screws, then more screws. Was able to take it almost fully apart, replace old broken parts with new. Putting it back together was like a puzzle. We did it though and saved money! Thanks
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door handle and end caps broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from BARTLETT, TN
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
parts need to be delivered to do repair, its been over a month. customer service is not taking calls. I have paid for parts I did not receive.
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Stove was not getting enough power.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from Wells, ME
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),r ed] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
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the old screws were not correct so it took 1/2 hour for me to find screws that would. there should have been proper screws sent with the end cap.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • anthony from Jacksonville, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in positi on underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.
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rusted trim strip
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Sarasota, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
remove screws, re-install screws
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The trim piece on the bottom of the door was rusted making the unit look really dirty and used.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from West Melbourne, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
It was pretty simple. Just remove the door as the bottom piece holds all the parts together. Place on table top and remove old trim. Install new trim and install door. The only difficult part was the trim had a space for the glass door front. I opened up the space so that the glass would seat easier. Went together real easy. Stove looks like it's brand new.
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Replace door gasket on very old wall oven
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • r from SUNNYVALE, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to red uce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.
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broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Winston Salem, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.
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Handle broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dean from Harrisonburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.
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Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
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Part rusted over time...22 years.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeannene from HUNTINGTON, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.
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bottom trim had rusted out from water build-up
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from buford, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.
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Drip pans were filthy after years of overflow from pots during cooking
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from Middle River, MD
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Luckily I retained the original manual and was able to order the drip pans through your company from the original manufacturer. Be sure range is turned off, lift the burner locking element, then lift the burner a bit. Remove the burner by pulling it, disconnecting it through the opening in the drip pan. Lift out the old drip pan and repla ce it with the new one. Then reconnect the burner through the opening in the drip pan. Press the burner locking element in place and the job is done
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All Instructions for the 1546
16 - 30 of 78