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1545 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1545
31 - 45 of 338

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Replace stove top burners (3 total)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Bonifay, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
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back burner not getting hot
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Shenandoah, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
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The broiler element wouldn't work.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lajuanna from O'Fallon, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
After I ordered a new element unit, I read the "do it yourself" review on the page. I took the back off of the range and found the broken wire. I found that I had the same problem with the wiring, and that maybe the element was not the problem. I went to Lowe's and purchased a female spade connector, because no one would sell me one th rough the parts department. All I did was cut off the wire at the end of the burned section, stripped back about 1/2 inch of the wire and put on the new spade connector. I took off the origonal connector/crimp, and slipped on the new one. (You do have to make sure that the wiring doesn't touch the range back) The element was not the problem, so the origonal one still works fine. I may keep the element I ordered, just to have it if this one goes out. I didn't even need to remove the screws from the element inside the oven. It can all be done from the back of the range.
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Glen Cove, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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The oven was not getting very hot because the bake element had stopped working (broiler element was fine).
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Bella Vista, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I turned off the breaker to the stove, took the oven racks out, used my pliers to remove the nuts that hold the bake element in place, then used the pliers to disconnect the old element from the wires in the back of the stove. Connected the new element, screwed the nuts back in, flipped the breaker back on, and turned on the oven. Ten min utes, tops.
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8" element shorted out
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Highlands, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ed wired new on with the two screws.
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Front right burner would obtain the right heat setting.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John H. from JACKSONVILLE, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.
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When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from CEDARVILLE, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
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Burnt out Terminal Block
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Hilton Head, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the burner coil.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wirin g and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.
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The drawer support broke.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cindy from Golden Valley, ND
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.
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the bake element broke
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Apex, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the 2 screws and removed the bake element, replaced the new one
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Broiler not working
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Teresa M from denver, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turned off electricity. Removed two screws that held the element in back of oven. Removed the two screws that held it up to top of oven. Disconnected the two wires that held it in the rear of the oven. Removed it from the top support. Replaced the old element with the new in the support. plugged it it, replaced all four screws. Turn ed on the electricity and turned on the oven-it worked!
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Mice had destroyed the top of the insulation leaving dropping and shredding pad
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Regina from EVERGREEN, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I lifted the top of the range, pulled out old insulation (which was gross!), pulled out two wires (grounding, I think?) replaced with new insulation, reinserted wires and wahla! Done!
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All Instructions for the 1545
31 - 45 of 338