1545 - Instructions

After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had ... Read more no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.

I spent more time turning off the breaker and opening the door than replacing the element.

Nut driver to remove the 2 screws, NN Pliers to remove the leads, remove the element and reverse the process.

Hope this isn't copyrighted..... so easy, a caveman could do it!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

The hinge mechanism in the back of the range top, could not be fitted to the new part. I needed to enlarge a couple of seat holes on the underside in the front portion of the new part to make it seat securely enough so the hinge mechanism could be safely deleted. (The new top is now simply sitting on the range, without hinge in the back) ... Read more .
More care should have been used to identify the correct top for the exact model and serial number of the range. Even though I had communicated those numbers when I ordered the part, and the picture looked like the correct part, the problem arose.

The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal ... Read more crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

Followed the instructions online, very simple, quick and painless.

took of the back panel with a nut driver,pulled off the wires one at a time ,put them on the new switch in same position as the old switch.removed old switch with a screwdriver ,screwed in new switch,replaced back panel,put on switch knob

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

First I unpluged the unit from the recepticle, then unscrewed the back panal from the oven. I removed the to wire connections from the bake element and then removed the two screws from the element itself. I removed the element and did exactly the sae in reverse to install the new unit.

I was surprised to find that the 2 screws holding on the plastic end caps were not philips. it looked like an allen wrench deal but that didn't work. Turned out that I had to buy a hex tool. Looked kinda like a swiss army knife but had allen wrench like hex tools in various sizes. By then I was determined to finish the job even if it mean ... Read more t buying a tool I'd never use again. The job took about five minutes once I had the right tool. The stove looks normal now. The stove looks brand new but for some reason there were cracks in the end caps where the screw hole were.

First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced th ... Read more is terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.

Removed the screws holding the back in place, then pulled off the control knob and removed the two screws holding the infinity switch. Swapped the leads from the old to the new switch and reinstalled everything. Worked like a champ!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl ... Read more iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Removed old gasket and pried out clips with screwdriver. Installed new gasket.