1446 - Instructions

Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and ... Read more inside light would at least go off and stay off.

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that ... Read more is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to ... Read more access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

First I unscrewed the end of the oven door and realized I could replaced the parts easily that hold the handle on the door. Then I held the sharp, broken plastic ends with a towel and used my drill with a thingy that fits on a small hex nut and unscrewed the broken handle parts and removed them. All I had to do after that is screw on t ... Read more he new handle holders with the handle bar fit snuggly between them, presto, new handle bar installed. Great service from partselect. com. Would use them again.!

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one ... Read more on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing hand ... Read more les were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.

Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.

My son repaired it. I ordered the parts thinking I could repair it but it was way beyond my ability.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.

Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.

Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked op ... Read more en!)

Your support team helped tremendously in ordering the parts. Parts arrived in only 2 days. Upon taking the door off the oven we had to remove several screws, then more screws. Was able to take it almost fully apart, replace old broken parts with new. Putting it back together was like a puzzle. We did it though and saved money! Thanks

parts need to be delivered to do repair, its been over a month. customer service is not taking calls. I have paid for parts I did not receive.