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11082380310 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11082380310
61 - 75 of 93

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Switch broken
  • Willie from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the lo cation and design of the switch. I got it though.
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Had issues with removing the inner tub
  • Bruce from Yankton, SD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!
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The drain hose was very old
  • Faye from Clearmont, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
My husband and a friend did the work. I was not there but was told that there was no problem. Everything is working well now.
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over fill water
  • ronnie from meriden, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
replace the water valve
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Washer leaking
  • Forrest from Oxford, AL
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.
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broken
  • Tomas from Orlando, FL, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the old one installed the new one
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Dryer door switch broken or burned out
  • James from Iota, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.
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Bad water valve
  • James from Lewisville, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Oredered late Friday afternoon. Got part Monday afternoon.thanks
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Door popped open when operating
  • John from Benicia, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Both the latch on the door and the strike plate were replaced. A technician from Parts-Select came and leveling and removal of possible obstructions were done. It looked like it might stay closed but popped open with temperature additions during the wash cycle. The door seals had been replaced and probably were putting some additional pr essure on the door. I inserted the "magic bullet" --- (a screw) in above the strike plate and that solved the problem---door stays shut. As a side note, the screw originally used was inserted in an electrical wire plastic connector and inserted but it appears that shutting the door too hard caused it to pop into the cavity behind the latch (not into the washer itself). So I used a plastic sheet rock anchor with large spiral threads which was a larger diameter than the strike-plate slot and therefore when the door was shut hard there was no way that it could be dislodged. It was a smaller size anchor in order to not put excessive pressure on the stike-plate. Since the plastic anchor had a phillips head slot I did not have to use a metal screw to get the anchor in.
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Missing lid hinge bearing
  • Kim from Oviedo, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid an d into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.
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Worn, leaking drain hose
  • Mary Jane from Plymouth, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
It was a no-brainer repair. We removed the worn hose and replaced it with the new one. Only variable was that the new clamp was too big for our fitting, so we used the old one. The clamp was the only mechanical thing we did. The best part was the very prompt delivery of the new part and the help finding it from the rep at the company.
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Stopped and would not restart / start.
  • Patricia from Duck, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.
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All Instructions for the 11082380310
61 - 75 of 93