11082380310 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

New hose was perfect, went on easy.

We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the rec ... Read more ommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. ... Read more I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness o ... Read more f cam arms and it worked

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right ... Read more fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, ... Read more line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

I stripped the machine down and replaced the tub seal and drain hose.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. al ... Read more most spent $400.00 on a new one.

I disconnected the drive belt from the motor and ran the motor to isolate it from the rest of the mechanisms. This was the noise. I disconnected the water lines and electrical cord,laid the machine front down. I disconnected the motor plug,removed the two bracket to body bolts and lifted the motor out to the bench. I then transferred th ... Read more e bracket to the new motor and reversed the procedure to install the motor. The most difficult part was raising the machine back up alone,I suggest a helper.

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispens ... Read more er in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

This repair took me longer because I was just giving it a try - I have no experience, although I tend to be "handy." I'm sure anyone with experience would rate this as "easy" and have taken only a short time. I had to watch the video several times to understand what to do - and the comments were helpful too. My washer is an OLD maytag, ... Read more so I removed the front of the dash and pulled it forward to access the electronics. My switch had only 2 prongs, so I hooked up to the "lid closed" option on the new switch. It works perfectly now. Very pleased I gave it a try.