11021392011 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.

Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.

Unplugged washer, turn off water to washer, removed water lines from washer, pull washer away from wall, removed about 5 screws from top access panel and remove, used putty knife to release clips from both sides of front control panel and lay forward, removed three screws from valve, disconnect hose from valve. Reassemble in reverse order. Not a bad idea to run a little water into bucket from both supply line to remove any foreign material that may have let lose from shut off valve before reconnecting to washer.

I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machine worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.

I removed the back access panel and what was left of the capacitor mounting device (the capacitor (or what was left of it) was laying against the access panel). I mounted the new capacitor which had a metal strap for mounting. I removed the small, black, wire mounting device that was still plugged in to the old capacitor and slipped the wires through that device. After reviewing how to reattach the wires (it turned out the polarity on my capacitor did not matter) I plugged the wires in using the wire mounting device. Once I closed it back up everything worked fine.

Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!

My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.

There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.

Followed instructions.

Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.